Hemming Lined Sleeves (with video!) + Attaching In-seam Pockets to the Lining - The Willa Wrap Coat Sew Along

Today we're covering two aspects of sewing your Willa Wrap Coat - attaching your lining to your sleeves (plus how to prevent hem droop on a sleeve like this with no visible hem stitching line) PLUS, if you chose to add in-seam pockets into your Willa, rather than use the included patch pocket, you might want to consider attaching the pocket bag onto your coat lining, to stop them drooping as well.

How to hem Sleeves on a Lined Garment

I have videoed this step, as I think it's easier to see in action. Take a look below at how I hem lined sleeves and then prevent any hem droop by attaching the seam allowances back onto themselves.

How to attach In-seam pocket bags onto your Coat Lining

If you added in-seam pockets, you may want to consider attaching them to the inside of your coat. Inseam pockets can be a bit floppy if they have nothing to attach to other than the side seam, and while it's generally not an issue, if you have a seam allowance to attach them too (like we do because of the lining) why not attach them and keep them in place? Doing this also keeps your facing to the inside of your coat (rather than rolling out, since under-stitching is not really an option for Willa if you're choosing not to top stitch) - so, it's a mutually beneficial relationship!

You can make a pocket attachment out of any thready-thing - a thread chain (how-to video here!), ribbon, twill tape, bias binding, thin rope, lace etc. I had some rope laying around that I chose to use as a different example, but you really can use anything - you don't see this from the outside of your coat.

You can skip this step if you like, because you never see the pockets due to the lining, but if you'd like to have your pocket stay in place rather than droop (especially if you have something heavy in it) then read on...

Steps:

1. You will be attaching your pocket bag seam allowance to your facing/lining seam allowance. Press your pocket over flat to the front, and keep your facing folded over flat, right sides up, but with the lining lifted gently so you can see the seam allowance.

2. If you're using something other than a thread chain (which you will sew straight into your seam allowances) the first thing you should do is tie a knot at one end.

3. Place your knot on top of your lining seam allowance and measure up how long you'll need the length of your thread/chain to be. You want to include some slack in this, it shouldn't be too tight. Equally though, don't let it be too loose, or you'll defeat the purpose.

4. Tie a knot at the other end of your thread once you're happy with the length and cut away from the remaining length.

5. Take a needle and thread, knotted at the end (it doesn't have to match or look pretty! You won't see it) and thread it into the knot, then attach it securely to your seam allowance on one side, knotting at the end.

6. Repeat for the remaining side and that's it! Your pocket is now attached to your lining and vice versa, keeping both in place when you're out and about.

You can purchase your Willa Wrap Coat sewing pattern here.

xx

J