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New Pattern Release - The Dulcie Pinafore

Wednesday, September 30, 2020

 Designed with autumn layers in mind, Dulcie brings 60s charm to a structured pinafore dress.

I am so excited to be releasing the Dulcie Pinafore to you today - the first pattern in my new extended JLH Curve sizing.

Dulcie includes additional sizes 26 to 34 as well as E+F cups within the new Curve pattern. The Original pattern includes the usual 6 to 24, A to D cups and the Curve pattern includes sizes 16 to 34, C to F cups.

If you fall into the cross-over sizes (16 to 24, C+D cups) you can choose to use either pattern. For more information on the new pattern block, you can read the blog post here.

Pattern Details

Autumn is in the air for many of you, so meet The Dulcie Pinafore, a structured, button-down pinafore dress with a square neckline and semi-fitted A-line skirt with square in-set pockets. 

Princess seams provide shaping through the bodice for a smooth fit over the bust and back, and deep roomy pockets carry all of your daily essentials. The bodice is fully lined for a clean inside finish, and optional top-stitching in key areas can add a modern element to an otherwise 60s mod design.

Wear Dulcie over light-weight blouses and shirts or fitted knit tops, for a warm layered dress. If you're heading into the warmer months however, and don't want to be wearing additional layers, Dulcie has plenty of coverage and is able to be worn on its own as a sleeveless summer dress. 

Dulcie works perfectly paired with any of the JLH knit top patterns. Dulcie is styled here with a Gable Top, but Ostara, Bronte and Vielle would also look lovely, as well as the Aisling Blouse.

Throw on a cardigan and a pair of gumboots for a stroll, or layer with a shirt and add heels for the office.

Skill Level

Dulcie is a perfect project for intermediate seamstresses or confident beginners looking to up-skill.

Several tutorials will cover some of the tricker steps in the coming weeks.

New Sizing

With the addition of the extended size range, all JLH patterns have had a slight measurement makeover to ensure everything is cohesive.

You can find the new sizing information here, including how to choose your cup size. Make sure you re-measure yourself, then compare these to the new sizing tables.

The Dulcie Pinafore includes both the Original and Curve sizes, ranging from 6 to 34 with cups A to F. You can find out a bit more about the new JLH Curve block and patterns here.

Multiple Bust Cups - A to F

If you were ever worried about performing FBA's on princess seams, worry no more...

Dulcie includes pattern pieces for A to F cups, so that you'll no longer need to make additional bust adjustments for the perfect fit.

Included in the instructions are a full set of Finished Garment Measurements, as well as detailed instructions on choosing the right size for your unique shape.

Fabric Options

The Dulcie Pinafore is best suited to mid-weight fabrics with some structure. Denim, corduroy, wool, suitings, tweeds and mammoth flannel will make a great Dulcie Pinafore.

For the bodice lining, look for light-weight woven fabrics such as cotton lawn or voile to help reduce seam allowance bulk.

If making Dulcie for warmer weather, denim is perfect, though most mid-weight cottons (or any natural/breathable fabric) will work well.

Note: if you are using a bulky/thick fabric, you may want to cut your second waistband (the one that will sit on the inside of the dress) in a lighter weight fabric to reduce bulky seams.

Meet the Models

Oh hey there Stacey!

I've added a new feature to the pattern listing page - this will be included with all new pattern releases.

In the Meet the Models section, you can find model information like their measurements, the size and block (Original or Curve) they are wearing, as well as any additional pattern adjustments made to suit their individual bodies.

It's me, Jen!

Digital Release Only

You will recieve both pattern size ranges delivered instantly to your inbox! From there, you can choose my easy-to-assemble print-at-home file or you can send the A0 file to a PrintShop and have them print it for you.

The Layers Function is included in all pattern files, so you can turn on and off any number/combination of sizes your heart desires.

There will be no paper patterns available for Dulcie at this stage.

Purchase your Dulcie Pinafore Pattern here!

Why not share your Dulcie Pinafore on Instagram? Tag me and use the hashtags #JLHDulciePinafore and/or #JLHCurve.



The Dulcie Pinafore - New Pattern Coming Soon...

Thursday, September 24, 2020


Yes, Dulcie will be here next week!

I've spent a lot of time on this pattern, it's the first pattern to include my new extended size range - JLH Curve - and I'm so pleased with it, I hope you will be too.

Autumn is just around the corner for many of you (and to be honest, it's still feeling rather wintery here as well) and Dulcie is the perfect dress to layer up.

With princess seams shaping the front and back bodice, a button up front, and a square neckline with inset pockets, Dulcie can be made in cosy wools and layered with a shirt for the office, or made in a casual denim and layered with a fitted Gable top for the weekend. There is also enough coverage included that you can wear Dulcie as is, without any additional layers underneath, so don't worry Southern Hemisphere.

Dulcie comes in both the JLH Original sizes (6-24, A to D cup) as well as the new JLH Curve sizes (16-34, C to F cups) and you get both patterns in one, so you don't have to fret over which size to choose.

If you'd like to be the first to see Dulcie, and get access to the Subscriber-only discount, make sure you sign up to my Newsletter here.

See you next week!



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JLH Size Range Update!

Saturday, September 19, 2020
Close up of a shoulder, lips and curly hair. Wearing a fitted grey top and denim button up pinafore.

At the end of this month, I'm going to be releasing my first new pattern that has the new extended JLH Curve size range included. WOOHOO!

The Dulcie Pinafore will have both the JLH Original sizing, 6-24 with A to D cups as well as the new JLH Curve sizing, 16-34 with C to F cups. That's a total of 15 sizes and 6 cups, up from the current 10 sizes and 4 cups.

The introduction of the new Curve range also gave me the chance to reassess the current size range of (what I am now calling) JLH Original patterns. Measurements are now more cohesive, grading rules have been slightly adjusted, and this should give a much better and more accurate fit across the board.

Today, I wanted to talk a little bit about the new Curve block, the updated measurements and some ideas on how to choose which pattern to use if you happen to sit in the cross-over sizes.

The JLH Curve Block

In general, the new Curve block has a bit more built-in ease through the bust, waist and hip area, and more finessed grading rules, especially in the upper sizes.  Depending on the pattern, there will also be differences with back width, neckline height + width, overall garment length etc.

The bust tends to be a bit more shapely in the Curve block and the shoulders — depending on the style — will have a little more room in them. The block is based on a height of 170cm (5' 6''), just the same as the Original.

There may also be slight differences in the placement of things like buttons: there may be more or less, or they may be distributed differently depending on the pattern/garment.

The Cross Over Sizes

If you fit into the cross-over sizes, 16 -24 C+D cups, you can choose to use either pattern.

From the outset, there is no quick way I can think of to find out which block might suit you best if you fall into the cross-over sizes. Bodies can have the same circumference measurements, but be completely different in proportion and the way the body is held, which can make garments fit differently. 

My advice here is if you've made a JLH pattern before in these sizes and were happy with the fit, keep using the Original pattern. If you've had to make several alterations in the past, perhaps the new Curve block will give you a better 'out of the packet' fit. And if you've never made a JLH Pattern before, then making a toile of both would be your best bet.

The JLH Original and Curve Measurement Tables

You can find the new JLH measurement tables right here.

Make sure you measure yourself before you choose your size, especially if you have made JLH patterns before, as you may now fall into different sizes with the refreshed measurements. 

Follow the new guide on choosing your cup size and always choose your cup size first! Even if your full bust circumference puts you closer to (or smack bang on) another cup — always choose the cup size bodice you fall into then grade to get the right circumference. You will get a much better fit (the first time around) through the neckline and shoulders this way, which is a much harder area to perfect than the full bust.

All new release patterns will include Finished Garment Measurements, and depending on the style and intended over-all fit, sometimes these measurements can be quite different between the Original and Curve measurements. Take care over these measurements: don't rush into choosing a size before comparing them. If you have a similar fit garment hanging in your wardrobe, even better. You can compare these measurements to your garment to get a better idea of how the garment will sit and if you might want to make any initial changes, pre-toile. 

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As always, I recommend you make a toile before cutting into your pretty fabric. I know it's a whole additional step, but it really does save heartbreak (or gives you the green light to proceed with confidence) at the end of the day.

If you have any questions, feel free to flick me an email jen at jenniferlaurenhandmade dot com.

I'm so excited to bring you Dulcie at the end of the month... sign up to the newsletter here if you'd like to know when it's available.



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