JLH Size Range Update!

Saturday, September 19, 2020
Close up of a shoulder, lips and curly hair. Wearing a fitted grey top and denim button up pinafore.

At the end of this month, I'm going to be releasing my first new pattern that has the new extended JLH Curve size range included. WOOHOO!

The Dulcie Pinafore will have both the JLH Original sizing, 6-24 with A to D cups as well as the new JLH Curve sizing, 16-34 with C to F cups. That's a total of 15 sizes and 6 cups, up from the current 10 sizes and 4 cups.

The introduction of the new Curve range also gave me the chance to reassess the current size range of (what I am now calling) JLH Original patterns. Measurements are now more cohesive, grading rules have been slightly adjusted, and this should give a much better and more accurate fit across the board.

Today, I wanted to talk a little bit about the new Curve block, the updated measurements and some ideas on how to choose which pattern to use if you happen to sit in the cross-over sizes.

The JLH Curve Block

In general, the new Curve block has a bit more built-in ease through the bust, waist and hip area, and more finessed grading rules, especially in the upper sizes.  Depending on the pattern, there will also be differences with back width, neckline height + width, overall garment length etc.

The bust tends to be a bit more shapely in the Curve block and the shoulders — depending on the style — will have a little more room in them. The block is based on a height of 170cm (5' 6''), just the same as the Original.

There may also be slight differences in the placement of things like buttons: there may be more or less, or they may be distributed differently depending on the pattern/garment.

The Cross Over Sizes

If you fit into the cross-over sizes, 16 -24 C+D cups, you can choose to use either pattern.

From the outset, there is no quick way I can think of to find out which block might suit you best if you fall into the cross-over sizes. Bodies can have the same circumference measurements, but be completely different in proportion and the way the body is held, which can make garments fit differently. 

My advice here is if you've made a JLH pattern before in these sizes and were happy with the fit, keep using the Original pattern. If you've had to make several alterations in the past, perhaps the new Curve block will give you a better 'out of the packet' fit. And if you've never made a JLH Pattern before, then making a toile of both would be your best bet.

The JLH Original and Curve Measurement Tables

You can find the new JLH measurement tables right here.

Make sure you measure yourself before you choose your size, especially if you have made JLH patterns before, as you may now fall into different sizes with the refreshed measurements. 

Follow the new guide on choosing your cup size and always choose your cup size first! Even if your full bust circumference puts you closer to (or smack bang on) another cup — always choose the cup size bodice you fall into then grade to get the right circumference. You will get a much better fit (the first time around) through the neckline and shoulders this way, which is a much harder area to perfect than the full bust.

All new release patterns will include Finished Garment Measurements, and depending on the style and intended over-all fit, sometimes these measurements can be quite different between the Original and Curve measurements. Take care over these measurements: don't rush into choosing a size before comparing them. If you have a similar fit garment hanging in your wardrobe, even better. You can compare these measurements to your garment to get a better idea of how the garment will sit and if you might want to make any initial changes, pre-toile. 

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As always, I recommend you make a toile before cutting into your pretty fabric. I know it's a whole additional step, but it really does save heartbreak (or gives you the green light to proceed with confidence) at the end of the day.

If you have any questions, feel free to flick me an email jen at jenniferlaurenhandmade dot com.

I'm so excited to bring you Dulcie at the end of the month... sign up to the newsletter here if you'd like to know when it's available.



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