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Replacing a Drawstring Waistline with Elastic

Thursday, October 21, 2021

Today I've got a handy little tutorial for you on how to replace the drawstring waistline on your Quincy/Mayberry Dresses or Farris Jumpsuit & Playsuit for elastic.


It's really simple and doesn't need any pattern alterations - just omit the front drawstring openings, construct your garment up to attaching the bodice and bottom together and then watch the video for the rest.




Remember, all three patterns (Quincy, Mayberry and Farris) are interchangeable, meaning you can become your own designer and mix and match the tops and bottoms around as you desire. Here, I've taken the Farris bodice and paired it with the Mayberry skirt, with some added length to turn it into a more midi-style skirt. This sample is made with rayon. 


You'll need:

  • Your Farris/Quincy/Mayberry pattern
  • Length of elastic (more info below), no wider than 2cm (3/4")
  • A safety pin




Elastic Type:

I used fold over elastic (FOE) for my waistline, as I had some laying around and find that it lasts longer than regular elastic. The stretchy threads are so fine and plentiful in FOE, that when a few are pierced by your machine needle when sewing, they hold up much better than elastic that has thick channels running through it.


The finished channel on your garment measures 2cm total, so don't use an elastic that is any wider than this measurement.



Elastic Length:

You can use any length of elastic you like - the general rule is your waist measurement minus 2.5cm (1") plus 1.5cm (5/8") seam allowance at each end (3cm total). But this depends on how stretchy your elastic is and your personal preferences.


I like mine looser so tend to just use my straight waist measurement plus a seam allowance. But you can also add more length and then try your garment on and adjust from there. 


Remember, it's easier to take away in the first instance than add!




Hope you liked this easy little tutorial!


xx

J



New Pattern Release! The Farris Jumpsuit & Playsuit, A to F cups, sizes 6-34

Wednesday, August 18, 2021







Chic and confident, fun and playful, the Farris Jumpsuit and Playsuit is perfect for any occasion, dressed up with statement earrings & heels, or played cool and casual with ballet flats or sneakers.


It's time to introduce the Farris Jumpsuit & Playsuit (or romper, if that's what you'd like to call it!), the next pattern in the Quincy/Mayberry mix'n'match sewing set.


Become your own designer by switching out tops and bottoms between all three patterns, creating an almost endless mix of perfect dresses, jumpsuits and playsuits to match your own taste and wardrobe needs.


Farris comes in both the Original and Curve size ranges, from 6 to 34 in A to cups, up to a hip size 159.5cm or 62 3/4".


AND there are two back pant patterns included in the JLH Curve pattern set - perfect if you find you need more room in the seat.








Pattern Details


With it's cute grown-on sleeves, gently V neckline and angled bust darts, Farris oozes confidence and playfulness, as well as a bit of sophistication thrown in for good measure.


Choose the short pant legs to make a fun playsuit/romper, or use the long, wide-legged pants to make the elegant jumpsuit option. Drafted for a height of 170cm/5'7", the pant falls straight down from the hip, with the short ending mid-thigh and the long leg falling to just above the ground - meaning you can wear flats confidently, knowing you won't end up dragging the back of your jumpsuit hem on the ground.


Comfort comes first, with Farris sporting the same drawstring waistline as her sisters, the Quincy & Mayberry dresses. Add in all-in-one pockets, and you've got the perfect pattern to play around with loud prints, soft colours and everything in between.


Dress Farris up with statement earrings, made in black linen or champagne coloured silk, or keep it cool and casual made in denim or rayon teamed with tennis shoes or ballet flats for the weekend.


The Farris Jumpsuit & Playsuit if perfect for wearing year-round as well! Layer up with long sleeves underneath (a Vielle or Ostara top work perfectly), and to make your playsuit winter-worthy, pop some colourful tights on underneath and throw a chunky cardigan on top for the perfect transitional garment.




Skill Level


Farris is designed for confident seamstresses looking to up-skill. Techniques covered include buttonholes, making an enclosed drawstring casing and sewing in bust darts.


I've also included bonus instructions for adding in a centre back invisible zip if you have wider/fuller shoulders, and need additional room to release the neckline in order to more easily take off your garment.










Sizing


Farris includes both the Original and Curve size ranges. The Original includes sizes 6 to 24 with A to D cup bodices and the Curve includes sizes 16-34 with C to F cup bodices.


The E+F Curve bodices are shaped with two parallel side bust darts to smoothly shape the bust, while the A to D cup bodices (across both size ranges) are shaped with a single bust dart.


Due to the style of Farris, if your hip size is more than one size bigger than your waist, you should size up in the waist as well in order to fit the garment over your hips. Any additional waist ease will be cinched in with the drawstring closure.


The Curve pattern also includes two back pant options, Regular and Plus. If you generally find you need more room in the seam of your trousers, the Plus pant includes a higher back rise, a fuller curve over the buttocks and a longer crotch curve. More info is included in the pattern instructions.



PLUS, Extra Finished Garment Measurements included...


If you're worried about choosing a size, I've also included a whole bunch of additional Finished Garment Measurements. As well as the usual bust, waist and hips you'll find bicep circumference, to in-seam leg and crotch lengths to bodice length etc. Simply compare these measurements to a similar garment you already like the fit of (or one you know you'd like to alter) and you'll be surprised at how much for the hard stuff is already done.


You can read about the new sizing here.


What about the Quincy and Mayberry Dress patterns in the Curve sizes?


They will be here for early 2021 and I promise will be worth the wait. I did try to get them ready for a release a bit closer to the Farris pattern being ready, but alas, they deserve the time and attention to get them right, rather than being rushed out the door when they're not quite ready. They'll be here soon...






Fabric Options


The Farris Jumpsuit & Playsuit is suitable for a wide range of lightweight woven fabric with some drape.


Rayon, silks, crepes and other slinky fabric suit Farris perfectly - Tatenda is wearing the Curve playsuit option in rayon.


You can also choose any of your favourite fabrics from cotton lawn, voile and poplin to linen, chambray, denim and suitings, or even a pinwale corduroy (baby cord). I'm wearing the Original jumpsuit option in a light-weight denim.


As you can see in the samples, denim lends a much more structured appearance to the garment, even though it's a light-weight denim. Where as the rayon has a much smoother, more draped look.







Meet the Models


In the Meet the Models section on the Farris Jumpsuit & Playsuit listing, you can find model information like their measurements, the size and block (Original or Curve) they are wearing, as well as any pattern adjustments made to suit their individual bodies.


A huge thank you to Tatenda for modelling the Curve 24E (out to a 28 waist) Farris Playsuit.


You can find out more about us (and any particular quirks) on the listing page here.




Purchase your Farris Jumpsuit & Playsuit here now!




Digital Release Only


You will receive your pattern delivered instantly to your inbox upon check out.


From there, you can choose my easy-to-assemble print-at-home file or you can send the A0 file to a PrintShop and have them print it for you.


The Layers Function is included in all pattern files, so you can turn on and off any number/combination of sizes your heart desires.


There will be no paper pattern available for Farris at this stage.



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Make sure you tag me on instagram and use the hashtags #JLHFarrisJumpsuit, #JLHFarrisPlaysuit, #SewJLH and/or #JLHCurve so I can see and share your makes!


Hope you enjoy this new pattern, can't wait to see what you do with it,



xx

J

The Farris Jumpsuit & Playsuit - Pattern Coming SOON!

Wednesday, August 11, 2021

Another pattern is on the way! This time, I've added a jumpsuit/playsuit (romper) into the JLH pattern set and I'm excited about this one...



The Farris Jumpsuit & Playsuit is the next instalment of the Quincy+Mayberry Dress mix'n'match pattern series. You'll be able to freely switch around tops and bottoms between all three patterns, making almost endless variations of jumpsuits, playsuits and dresses to suit you and your handmade wardrobe.


Farris will be available in both the JLH Original and JLH Curve size ranges.



Make sure you sign up to my newsletter before 11.59pm Monday 16th August so you can take advantage of the 25% off subscriber-only discount when it's released!!


Sign up to the JLH Newsletter Here


See you next week...


xx

J

NEW PATTERN RELEASE: The Esme Top in sizes 6-34 A to F cups!

Wednesday, July 21, 2021








Esme sports a gentle, 50s inspired batwing sleeve and your choice of a shawl collar or V-neckline. A quick and satisfying make, Esme is the perfect palate-cleanser between more involved projects.


Say hello to the Esme Top! With so many options included to personalise your Esme, you'll be hard pressed to choose which mix'n'match options to make first.


From cuffed long or short sleeves, to long-line or regular bodice lengths to shawl or V-necklines, Esme has something for everyone and every season.


The perfect project to get you out of that mid-summer/winter sewing funk, Esme is comfortable, satisfying and so quick to whip up - with its batwing-style grown-on sleeve, you'll have a brand new set of lovely knit top layers before you know it.


Esme comes in both the Original and Curve size ranges, from 6 to 34 in A to F cups.


Esme was modelled here with the Bastion Culottes (available in both the Original and Curve size ranges) and model's own jeans.


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Original pattern, V neckline, Short sleeve.
95% cotton, 5% spandex knit fabric.


Curve pattern, Shawl Collar, Long sleeve, regular length bodice.
100% Merino fabric.


Original pattern, Shawl Collar, Long sleeve, regular length bodice.
100% Merino fabric.


Curve pattern, V neckline, Short sleeve.
95% cotton, 5% spandex knit fabric.



Pattern Details


Made with comfy stretch knits, Esme is a quick sew that doesn't use much fabric. With both a regular and long-line bodice included, Esme can be worn tucked in or out for year-round comfort.


The Shawl Collar variation looks great teamed with a pair of denim slacks or cropped pencil jeans for a retro Teddy Girl vibe. Alternatively, tuck a long-line V-necked Esme into your favourite high-waisted skirt for the perfect casual Marilyn look.


The grown-on, 50s-style batwing sleeve can be worn short or extended (using the included Long Sleeve pattern piece) and Esme is perfect for colour and pattern blocking. Both the long and short sleeves include cuffed hemlines that are great for using up odd bits of knit scraps you have tucked away in your sewing room.


Esme is easy to grade under the arm for a more exaggerated batwing sleeve if that's more your style. Look out for tutorials coming your way very soon.



Skill Level


Esme is designed for confident beginners through to advanced seamstresses. If you've never sewn with knits before, Esme could be the perfect project to dip your toes into the wonderful world of knits.


With a special technique for getting the perfect squared off necklines, you'll be wondering why you didn't jump in ages ago.








Sizing


The Esme Top includes both the Original and Curve size ranges. The Original includes sizes 6 to 24 with integrated cup size bodices A+B and C+D. The Curve sizes include sizes 16-34 with integrated cup size bodices C+D and E+F. You can read about the new sizing here.


Depending on the size range you choose and your cup size, Esme can have slight negative to slight positive ease at the bust, to zero/positive ease at the waist.


If you're worried about choosing a size, I've also included a whole bunch of additional Finished Garment Measurements - simply compare these measurements to a knit top you already like the fit of (or one you know you'd like to alter) and you'll be surprised at how much of the hard stuff is already done.


Multiple Bust Cups: A to F


Due to the nature of knit fabrics and the gentle batwing sleeve, two cup sizes are integrated per front bodice - A+B and C+D Original, and C+D and E+F Curve.  This gives a total of 4 front bodice pattern pieces to choose from (rather than 8 separated cups).



Fabric Options


Look for medium knit fabrics with good stretch across the grain. Knits should gave 40% stretch with good recovery.


The long sleeved Esme works well in floppier/drapier knits with less structure. In this case, if using the shawl collar, you may wish to interface this to keep it looking crisp and staying upright during wear.


All variations (bindings, shawl collar, long sleeve piece, cuffs) can be made with the same fabric as the body, or a contrasting fabric for colour and pattern blocking potential.






Meet the Models


In the Meet the Models section on the Esme shop listing, you can find model information like their measurements, the size and block (Original or Curve) they are wearing, as well as any pattern adjustments made to suit their individual bodes.


A huge thank you to Tatenda for modelling the Curve 24E+F Esme tops. 



Purchase your Esme Top!



Digital Release Only


You will receive your pattern delivered instantly to your inbox upon check out.


From there, you can choose my easy-to-assemble print-at-home file or you can send the A0 file to a Printshop and have them print it for you.


The Layers Function is included in all pattern files, so you can turn on and off any number/combination of sizes your heart desires. There will be no paper patterns available for Esme at this stage.


I'd love to hear how you're getting along making your Esme tops - why not tag me on Instagram or use the hashtags #JLHEsmeTop, #SewJLH or #JLHCurve so I can see and share your makes!


xx

J

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