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NEW PATTERN RELEASE - The Jade Wrap Dress

Wednesday, September 28, 2022







The Jade Wrap Dress is a fit'n'flare, apron-style back wrap dress.




Based on the classic apron styles of the 50s, Jade is a multi-tasking workhorse, able to be worn by itself out for summer-time ice cream, as well as working fabulously well layered with knit top tees (the Gable Top is a favourite of mine), or long sleeved blouses for cooler weather.


The Jade Wrap Dress is available in both the Original and Curve sizes, with A to F cups included, in sizes ranging from an NZ size 6 to 34.







The Details


Jade features a fully lined sleeveless bodice with princess seam front shaping and darted back shaping, finished with a V neckline.


A wide A-line skirt includes side seam pockets and falls to below the knee. The back skirt overlaps almost side seam to side seam (it's stepped back just a smidge so you can't see the edge of the skirt when looking from the front), meaning you have plenty of coverage across the back, even in windy weather.


Layer with a short or long sleeved Gable Top underneath for extra coverage, or try the blouson style of the Luna Lounge Set blouse or Aisling Blouse for some extra whimsy.






 Multiple cup Sizes - A to F


The Jade Wrap Dress includes both the Original and Curve sizes, spanning from a 6A cup (but side 75cm or 29 1/2") all the way up to a 34F cup (156.5cm or 61 5/8").


Included in the instructions are a detailed set of Finished Garment Measurements, meaning you're able to compare these to a similar garment that you currently like the fit of, or know you want to adjust. This takes much of the guess work out of making Jade, before you've even cut anything out.


Annabel wears a Curve 24C cup, graded to a size 26 waist. Jen wears a 10C cup - you can read more about us on the pattern listing page here.



Skill Level


Jade is suitable for intermediate seamstresses or for confident beginners looking to expand their skillset with a little challenge.


While Jade has no additional fastenings - making it a relatively quick sew - taking your time over constructing the bodice is my top tip. Paying particular attention to the back bodice angle (this can be easily stretched).


Techniques such as fully lining a bodice, set-in side seam pockets and being patient while your skirt hangs overnight, are all skills that will be built upon during your Jade Wrap Dress construction.


Princess seams and dart shaping are also techniques that are included, as well as optional top-stitching.





Fabric Suggestions


Jade is suitable for mid-weight woven fabrics with some drape.


Linen, chambray and denim are lovely and easy to work with. Broiderie anglaise, seersucker, jacquard, tencel and sateen also work very well for summer Jade dresses.


Mid-weight wool, suiting, flannels and pinwale cord also make an excellent heavier weight garment for cooler climes.


Choose lightweight linings such as lawn and voile, or use the same fabric as the main garment if using a lighter weight cloth. Synthetic linings can also be used.


Annabel's Jade Dress is made from a mid-weight linen with a loose weave, making is swing and drape beautifully. Jen's Jade Dress is made from a light-weight denim with plenty of drape, and is also shown paired with a Gable Top.



Jade pairs really well layered over a Gable Top.
Gable is available in both the Original & Curve Sizes, A to F cups.





Purchase the Jade Wrap Dress Sewing Pattern here.




Do you follow me on Instagram?


I've popped up some recent Reels on choosing your JLH Cup Size and the importance of choosing the right High Bust size for a great fit in the upper bodice. Check them out if you're unsure what size to go for OR send me an email with your measurements and I'll happily point you in the right direction (I LOVE helping with sizing).


And while you're at it, when sharing your makes to the 'gram, tag me or use the hashtags #JLHJade, #JLHCurve or #SewJLH so I can see and share them too.



Digital Release Only

You can choose to purchase your pattern either as an individual size range (Original or Curve), OR in an economical bundle if you'd like to have both ranges on hand. Your pattern will be delivered instantly to your inbox after you check out, and from there, you can choose my easy-to-assemble print at home file or send the A0 file to a print shop and have them print it for you.

The Layers Function is included in all pattern files, so you can turn on and off any number/combination of sizes your heart desires.



How to adjust the height of a Princess Seam

Thursday, September 15, 2022


Sometimes you might need to raise or lower the shaping of a princess seam over the bust - it might seem slightly more difficult than adjusting the height of a darted bodice, but it's really straight forward once you know how to do it.


I'm showing you this adjustment on the Georgie Pinafore, but you can use this method on any pattern that contains princess seam shaping. Make sure you remove seam allowances before making any pattern adjustments, and to make sure you're adjusting by the right amount, always make a toile (this will show you any other adjustments you need to make to your pattern as well!).



Steps:


1. Line up your centre front and side front bodice pieces. Grab a scrap piece of paper and draw a box around the full bust curve on the pattern.



2. Make note of the full bust curve and notches within the box you drew in step 1 on your scrap paper (marked in red below) .


3. Raise or lower the shaping inside the box by however much you determined needed adjusting on your toile.


4. Re-draw (true-up) your seam lines - shown in blue below - add seam allowances back on and continue your garment construction.


How quick was that? 


I'd love to know if you use this method to adjust the height on any of your patterns that contain princess seams - why not tag me on Instagram?


xx

Jen



New Pattern Release - The Luna Lounge Set

Thursday, August 25, 2022







The Luna Lounge Set, a gently oversized yet dressed-up pyjama set, ready for day or night.




The Luna Lounge Set is here! A collection with so many garment options included, you're sure to be spoiled for choice.


Luna is my take on a PJ/lounge-wear set - it has been designed to take you from day to night with ease, depending on the fabric you use. Flannels and cosy cottons work well for a pyjama-party movie night. But mix chambray shorts with a light double gauze blouse, and a weekend stroll for ice cream or coffee is easily on the cards.


The Luna Lounge Set is available in both the Original and Curve sizes, with A to F cups included, in sizes range from an NZ size 6 to 34.






The Details

Blouse


Luna includes a lightly over-sized button up blouse, with bust darts for shaping - double darts for E+F cups and no darts for A cups. It also features grown-on sleeves (there they are again...) which you can keep short or make use of the included long sleeve pattern piece, finished with an elasticated cuff.


The V neckline is finished with a thin facing which I recommend top-stitching to the blouse - it keeps it permanently in place (no flapping facings here!) and gives a casual baseball shirt-vibe.


You can then choose to add a gently rounded, floaty back peplum (best suited to lighter weight/floatier fabrics) or use the included plain back version if peplums aren't really your thing.


The peplum blouse lends itself incredibly well to day-wear; why not crop the length a little (as was done for Annabel's white version below) and pair jeans and ballet flats...?


Annabel's white Luna blouse has been cropped by 5cm (2") for a more casual, day-wear look. Because of this, the bottom button was removed.


The Details

Pant


The Luna Pant is a mid-rise pant with a wide elastic band. Two band widths have been included in the pattern, one to suit 38mm (1 1/2") elastic, and one to suit 50mm (2") elastic.


The pant includes options for long pants or shorts, and both have pockets included - because you know I would never release a pattern without pockets, right?


AND, the Curve pattern includes an additional back pant pattern piece, just like the Farris Jumpsuit & Playsuit. The Plus back pant is a great option to use if you find you often need more room in the seat: all the work has been done for you, and no extra pattern adjustments are always a winner in my book.


More information on how to choose your back pant pattern piece is included in the Instructions.




Multiple Cup Sizes - A to F


The Luna Lounge Set includes both the Original and Curve sizes, spanning from a 6A cup (bust 75cm or 29 1/2") all the way up to a 34F cup (156.5cm or 61 5/8").


Included in the instructions are a detailed set of Finished Garment Measurements, meaning you're able to compare these to a similar garment that you currently like the fit of, or know you want to adjust. This takes much of the guess work out of making Luna, before you've even cut anything out.


Annabel wear a Curv 24C cups, graded to a 26 waist, and a straight 26 pant. Jen wears a 10C cup graded to a 12 waist and a straight 10 pant - you can read more about us on the pattern listing page.



Skill Level


Luna is suitable for confident seamstresses looking to up-skill - with many possibilities for extending your skill set.


If you've never made a pant or short before, Luna will ease you in nicely. They're quick to make and easy to fit with their relaxed style and elasticated waistband.


The blouse can be as simple as choosing the short sleeve with the plain back. Or, go a step further and add the back peplum and long sleeve. You'll learn about inserting darts and adding buttonholes as well as gathering techniques and top-stitching.




Fabric Suggestions


Luna is suitable for a wide-range of light- to medium-weight woven fabrics with some drape.


Cotton lawn, voile and poplin to double gauze, sateen and seersucker, are all easy to sew with and wear brilliantly across both the pant and blouse patterns. Rayon, silks, crepes and other slinky fabrics also pair beautifully with all pieces in the Luna collection, as does light-weight linen, tencel & chambray.


Flannel works well for the cooler weather, just keep in mind that the peplum blouse works better in floatier fabrics.


Annabel's blue floral set is a Japanese double gauze and the white blouse is a cotton jacquard.  Jen's pink Luna Set is made up in cotton flannel for the bottoms and a cotton double gauze blouse. The grey gingham blouse is a cotton double cloth.









Instagram

Do you follow me on Instagram?


I've also posted some recent Reels on choosing your JLH Cup size and the importance of choosing the right High Bust size for a great fit in the upper bodice.


If you're not following along already, you can find me here.


And while you're at it, when sharing your JLH makes to the 'gram, tag me or use the hashtags #JLHLuna or #JLHCurve so I can see and share them too.


What it's really like with pets on set...

NEW PATTERN RELEASE - The Kinfolk Dress!

Wednesday, June 29, 2022






 Kinfolk, a sleek bohemian style dress, loose and flowy with waist ties for definition.



The Kinfolk Dress has bohemian 40s style at its heart. Part kaftan, part wrap-style dress, slip Kinfolk over your head and wrap the front waist ties around to the back to cinch in the silhouette however you please.


If mid-summer bonfires, flower-crowns and floaty dresses are right up your street, then the Kinfolk Dress has you covered (and then some!). The second brand new JLH pattern for 2022 is available in both the Original and Curve sizes, with A to F cups included, in sizes ranging from an NZ6 to 34.


Not that you need ethereal summer parties and fields of flowers to wear Kinfolk. She's a versatile piece and ready to become your new favourite make.





The Details


With princess seam shaping from the shoulder down over the bust, a curved panelled centre front bodice and 6 gored skirt, Kinfolk is your everyday throw-on dress that will take you from beach coverup to BBQ dinner in no time.


Construction isa breeze with no fastenings and casual grown-on sleeves. A gentle rounded neckline and in-seam pockets are paired with a pretty A-line shaped skirt, falling to just below the knee.


Plenty of ease is included at the waist and hips, and an optional step is included at the end to add elastic into the back waist seam, to help keep gathers even underneath the ties during wear.


Kinfolk evokes the best part of breezy summer gatherings in the woods. Make Kinfolk in light linen or broidery anglaise and your sorted for midsummer nights around the bonfire at the beach. Equally, made up in light denim or chambray styled with sneakers and you're ready to hit the pavement for weekend outings with your own kinfolk.



Multiple Cup Sizes - A to F


The Kinfolk Dress includes both the Original and Curve sizes, spanning from a 6A cup (bust 75cm or 29 1/2") all the way up to a 34F cup (156.5cm or 61 5/8").


Included in the instructions are a detailed set of Finished Garment Measurements, meaning you're able to compare these to a similar garment that you currently like the fit of, or know you want to adjust. This takes much of the guess work out of making Kinfolk, before you've even cut anything out.


Tatenda wears an 18D cup, graded to a 20 waist. Jen wears a 10C cup out to a 12 waist - you can read more about us on the pattern listing page.



Skill Level


Kinfolk is suitable for confident seamstresses looking to up-skill.


If you have a few makes under your belt, Kinfolk could be a great next step in building your handmade wardrobe. With no fastenings, Kinfolk is a quick make, but techniques such as inset-inseam pockets, a panelled front bodice and princess seams will build your skillset and give you the confidence to tackle more technical garments in the future.



Fabric Suggestions


Kinfolk is suitable for a wide-range of light- to medium-weight woven fabrics with some drape.


Cotton lawn, voile and poplin to linen, tencel, light chambray or denim, as well as double gauze, sateen and seersucker are easy to sew with and wear.


Rayon, silks, crepes and other slinky fabrics also work well, as does flannel and wool suitings for a heavier garment during cooler weather.


Tatenda's copper Kinfolk is a textured twist cotton (similar to flannel but more light-weight) and Jen wears Kinfolk in a cotton jacquard (blue) and a cotton double cloth (grey gingham).











Instagram

Do you follow me on Instagram?


I've started filming some videos (yikes! Talk about nerve wracking!!) and have a fun set of reels coming up showing the construction of Kinfolk. I've also posted some recent Reels on choosing your JLH Cup size and the importance of choosing the right High Bust size for a great fit in the upper bodice.




If you're not following along already, you can find me here.


And while you're at it, when sharing your JLH makes to the 'gram, tag me or use the hashtags #JLHKinfolk or #JLHCurve so I can see and share them too.


xx

Jen

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