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The Juniper Cardigan Sew Along - Attaching the Neck Band

Friday, June 23, 2017

Today we are attaching the neckband to our Juniper Cardigan. I like to attach my neckband one side at a time starting from the centre back, so that's what I'll be showing you today. If you like to attach your neckband from the bottom of one side, making your way around to the other side, please feel free to do this.

Also keep in mind that the neckband has several notches along it that match to various sections of the cardigan neckline, some of those sections are eased in, and others aren't.

You'll Need:


1. Starting from the centre back, right sides together, match the centre seam of the neckband to the centre back of your cardigan neckline. Pin in place.

2. On the neckband, match the notch next to the centre seam to the shoulder line seam that sits to the front of the cardigan.

3. Now you'll see that the cardigan neckline between these two pins is too big to fit into the neckband, this is the first section you'll need to ease in aka - STRETCH!

Yes, you'll need to stretch that section of the neckband until the cardigan neckline fits into it. This section will require quite a bit of stretching, hence the need for a stretchy fabric.

Pin in place.

4. The next section of the cardigan also requires easing in.  Match the next notch along your neckband to the 'first button notch' marked on your pattern (aka, the first notch you'll get to after your shoulder line). Ease this in as you did above and pin in place.

5. Now we are up to the section that requires no easing of the cardigan. The 'under bust notch' will match to the second to last notch on the neckband and the final notch on your neckband will match to the hip seam line. The bottom of both the band and the neckline should then match up perfectly at the bottom. Pin in place.

6. Repeat steps 2-5 for the other side of the cardigan neckline. Stitch in place working from one end to the other, remembering to ease in the neckband as you go. Press the neckband around to the front, pressing the seam allowance pointing to the sides of the cardigan.

Optional Step -

7. Using a longer straight stitch on the cardigan side, starting from one end and working your way to the other, top-stitch around your neckline 3mm or 1/8" away from the neckband stitching line.

Note: While the above is optional, I do recommend doing the additional top-stitching as a way to make your cardigan look more finished and to help prevent the neckline flipping around in the future.

We're nearly there! See you next time when we'll be attaching our sleeve cuffs.

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The Juniper Cardigan Sew Along - Stabilising Shoulders, Stitching up Side Seams & Attaching the Hip Band

Wednesday, June 14, 2017

I'll be doing a round up of Laneway Dresses in a few weeks, but now, it's time to get back to the Juniper Sew Along! We're going to be doing lots today, but I promise that everything is really straight forward - stabilising shoulders, stitching up side seams and attaching the hip band.

You'll need -

  • Juniper Cardigan - assembled bodice & hip band
  • Clear Elastic (or other stabiliser)
  • Pins & a threaded sewing machine

Stabilising Shoulder Seams

Now that we've attached our sleeves, we can stabilise the shoulders. Shoulder lines are a stress point for knit garments, so stitching something into the seam allowance will help the shoulder to retain it's fit without drooping over time. I talk a little more about stabilising options in this post and for the sew along, I'm using clear elastic.

1. Cut a length of clear elastic that is the same length as your cardigan shoulder (from the neckline to the first notch). Stitch this into the shoulder line seam allowance, catching both the sleeve and bodice seam allowance.

2. Press your seam allowance to the sleeve side and repeat for all other shoulder seam allowances.

Note: because there are two seams per shoulder, you will be stabilising both seams. You can omit one if you really want too, but there is no harm in doing both, just in case!

Sewing up side seams

1. Right sides together, match your under arm seams and pin in place. Match the rest of the bodice and sleeve side seams together and pin.

3. Stitch together in one go, pivoting at the under arm seam and back-tacking at each end. Repeat for the other side. Finish seam allowances if you wish.

Attaching the Hip Band

1. Wrong sides together, fold your hip band in half lengthwise, matching notches, and press.

2. Right sides together, match your hip band to your cardigan hip raw edge. Match the centre first and work your way out. The notches on either side of the centre of the hip band match to the bodice side seams.

2. Stitch in place.

3. Finish seam allowance if you want to and press up.

Optional - top stitch along the hip seam.

Next up we're attaching the neck band...

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New Pattern Release - The Laneway Dress (with B, C & D cups included!).

Wednesday, June 7, 2017

The Laneway Dress blends comfort, whimsy and the unexpected into one perfectly tailored dress.

The Details

With a sleek yet easy to wear 1940s A-line silhouette, Laneway will be your go-to dress for everyday adventures and beyond.

Double open-ended darts shape the waist and bust for a flattering fit and the distinctive asymmetrical or centred collar is built into the facing of the bodice, meaning no extra pattern pieces or tricky construction techniques are required.

With B, C & D cups included as well as clever inset pockets and a graceful V back neckline, Laneway is a perfect project for intermediate seamstresses. 

Laneway comes with your choice of an asymmetrical or centred collar. Secure with buttons, invisible hand stitches or your favourite brooch. 

Multiple cup sizes you say?

Yes! Laneway includes front bodice pieces for B, C & D cups as well as fitting advice and instructions on how to choose the correct size for a personalised fit. No more bust adjustments, yay!

Skill Level

Laneway is aimed at intermediate seamstresses, though if you have a few woven garments under your belt and want to dive right in, then this might just be the dress for you.

Set-in sleeves, zip insertion, integrated collar facings and inset pockets are all techniques you will learn with the Laneway Dress.

The Bonus Classic Neckline Pattern

Laneway is the perfect everyday dress, but sometimes having a distinctive collar might not be what you're after.

Included with your original Laneway Dress pattern is the bonus Classic Neckline pattern.

The classic Laneway Dress is constructed in exactly the same way as the original except there is no collar in sight, just a perfectly shaped neckline dipping just below your collar bone. 

 Included with your Laneway Dress pattern is the BONUS Classic Neckline Version. 

Your Laneway Pattern

You can purchase your Laneway Dress right here and have it delivered instantly to your inbox. You will receive an email with links to download either the easy-to-assemble A4/Letter version or the A0/Print Shop version (or both! Why not?).

I love seeing your makes and would love it if you tagged me on Instagram or used the hashtag #Lanewaydress .

Will you be making a Laneway any time soon?


PS) The Laneway Dress can be made in many of your favourite woven fabrics. The samples above were made in a range of fabrics - 

Navy & Spots (from Miss Maude) - Cotton Lawn
Flamingos (sold out - from Miss Maude) - Cotton Chambray
Maroon - Robert Kaufman Cotton Mammoth Flannel

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The Juniper Cardigan Sew Along - Attaching the Sleeves

Friday, June 2, 2017

Attaching the sleeves and forming the saddle shoulder line is the main feature of the Juniper Cardigan. I promise it's not difficult to get a nice curve along the shoulder line, but being able to sit back, relax and take your time with it will make all the difference. Once the sleeves are in, it's pretty much smooth sewing from here on out.

I should mention that this whole sew along is being done on my sewing machine, that's right, you do not need an overlocker to sew with knits (contrary to what you might think!). If you want to know how to sew with knits on your sewing machine, check out my post here for everything you need to know!

You'll need:
  • Either your long or 3/4 Juniper sleeve pieces
  • Bodice pieces - both front and back
  • Sewing machine & thread 
Note: it really doesn't matter which order you attach your sleeves. In the instructions that come with Juniper, the fronts are attached first, but today, I'm showing you the back first.

1. Right sides together, match your back bodice armscye/shoulder line to the back section of your sleeve armscye/shoulder line.

There are multiple notches along this section of the bodice and sleeve to help you line up this seam accurately. Pin in place.

Note: the angle of the notch on the back neckline of the bodice matches to the angle of the corner of the sleeve shoulder - it's just another extra check for you to make sure you have your sleeve matched up correctly.

2. Stitch in place, easing the sleeve in where necessary around the armscye.

When you get to the end of the shoulder line, continue following what would be the shoulder line (the blue line on the photo below), as opposed to pivoting your cardigan down into the neckline. This will ensure you stitch right into the corner of the sleeve. 

3. Finish edges (if you want to), notch curves and press the seam allowance using a tailor's ham or sleeve roll to the sleeve side.

Note: when you press your seam allowances up, this is where it will become apparent why you needed to stitch into the corner of the sleeve by following the 'imaginary' shoulder line. Below, you can see that the seam allowance, once pressed up, will match perfectly to your back neckline, giving you a smooth line to attach your neckband to later on.

4. Repeat the above steps on the front bodice and sleeve armscye - matching notches, easing the sleeve armscye into the bodice armscye and attaching the shoulder with a smooth line.

Note: There is no tricky sleeve corner to stitch into this time!

Repeat the above steps for the second sleeve and you're done. What a pretty shoulder line you have there...

See you next time for some shoulder stabilisation and side seam stitching action.

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