Assembling the Back Lining - The Willa Wrap Coat Sew Along

Tuesday, February 9, 2021

Today's Willa Wrap Coat Sew Along post is relatively long because there are several additional steps involved, like adding in the back ease, putting in the stitching guide for the back neckline as well as adding the coat hang loop (if you're adding one). They're all really easy steps though, there's just more of them in this post than there has been in the Sew Along so far.

Let's get started. 

Back Lining Assembly

1. Take the centre back panels of the lining and right sides together, line them up along the centre back seam. Pin in place.

2. Back-tacking at each end, stitch them together then trim down the seam allowance.

3. There is an additional notch along the back neckline, just over from the centre back seam. Pop a pin in here, then, back tacking at each end, sew a line of stitching straight down (parallel to the centre back seam) that is about 5cm (2") long. 

4. Flip one of your back panels over and press your entire seam allowance (including the centre back step) out. You now have an additional back vent in your lining for wearing ease! This makes wearing your coat more comfortable, as the lining can move with you, rather than straining against the back coat.

5. Right sides together, place your side back lining pieces along the princess seams of the centre back panel. Pin in place.

6. Back-tacking at each end, attach the panels. Trim down seam allowances and press the seam allowances towards the centre back.

Attaching the Back Facing

Remember, I've chosen not to interface my back neckline facing due to the thickness of my fabric!

1. Take your back facing + lining and right sides together, match the long side of the facing to the lining neckline. 

2. Because you're attaching 2 opposing curves together, pin main notches together first, then get pin happy to distribute the ease from the lining into the facing curve. It may feel like they don't fit, but the stitching lines do, just gently ease it in.

3. Back-tacking at each end, attach facing to the lining. 

4. Flip your facing back up and press the entire seam allowance down. Trim down seam allowance.

Adding Neckline Basting Guides

These neckline guides make attaching the front + back neckline and collar SO MUCH EASIER than if you decide to just wing it. The hard part comes when you get to the inner corners, as you don't have a true seam allowance to follow in those sections, and they can be fiddly. 

To give yourself the best foundation to get that step correct the first time, you should add in contrasting basting stitches onto your necklines.  We will get to the others in the next post, but because we're about to attach our hang loop, it's easier to add them in now.

Simply sew a line of basting stitch  along your stitching line (1.5cm or 5/8") away from the raw edge, up to the markings on your pattern piece, along the shoulders and entire neckline. You'll thank me for it!

Attaching the Hang Loop

1.  Take your hang loop and place it in the middle of your back facing (right side up for both!). 

You can play around with the finished length you'd like it, it's entirely up to you. When you're happy, pin in place.

2. Sew it in place - I like to do this along the stitching guides, but you can baste onto the seam allowance if you like.

3. Trim down any remaining length so that the legs match the outer raw edge of the facing seam allowance.

And that's it for today, I'll see you tomorrow where we'll be attaching our front and back necklines and shoulders together!

You can purchase your Willa Wrap Coat sewing pattern here.



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