Constructing the Outer Back Coat - The Willa Wrap Coat Sew Along

Friday, February 5, 2021

Yesterday we constructed the front of our Willa Wrap Coat and today we're assembling the back. Compared to yesterday, today is a pretty quick one, so let's get started!

A little note on grading seams (in case you missed it yesterday):

When a seam allowance is pressed to one side (rather than open) you may choose to grade the seam allowance that sits underneath a little shorter than the one on top. This is grading your seam. It helps remove additional bulk caused by the seams sitting on top of each other (rather than being spread out when the seams are pressed open) when opening seams isn't appropriate. If your fabric is especially bulky or doesn't like to hold a press, then you will want to consider doing this for all pressed-over seams, like the princess seam on both the front and back!

1. Take the two centre back panels and place them right sides together, lining up notches along the centre back seam. Pin in place.

2. Back-tacking at each end, stitch together. Trim down seam allowance, notch curves and press the seam open.

You may choose to top-stitch the seam allowances down on either side of the centre seam if you did the same for the front princess seam. 

3. Take one back side panel and place it on top of the centre back panel, right sides together. Pin key notches together along the length before easing the rest in.

That's a lot of pins! But feel free to use as many or as few as you feel you need too.

4. Back-tacking at each end, stitch together down the length of the seam. Trim down the seam allowance and notch curves. 

5. Press seam allowance to the centre and repeat the above steps for the other side panel.

You may choose to top-stitch the seam allowances down on each side panel princess seam, especially if you did the same for the front princess seam + centre back seam. These are purely decorative though, so don't feel you need too for construction. 

Quick and easy, huh?! 

That's us for the week, take a break over the weekend, clean out your sewing machine from all the fluff, tidy up your sewing space and get ready to start assembling the Front Lining on Monday. See you then!

You can purchase your Willa Wrap Coat sewing pattern here.



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