Today's post is the final pattern adjustment for the Willa Wrap Coat that we'll be doing before we finally start sewing next week!
How much to adjust by...
Where your arm and shoulder are connected (to find this, lift your arm up and down, you'll feel where the movement is happening) is where you want the top of the sleeve cap/end of the shoulder line to be sitting. If the shoulder is sitting too far down into the sleeve, you'll want to perform a Narrow Shoulder Adjustment to bring that back up. If the sleeve is pulling up, into your shoulder, you'll want to perform a Broad Shoulder Adjustment, to bring the sleeve back down.
Making a toile and measuring where the end shoulder line sits on you will give you a good idea whether you need to adjust this at all, OR by how much. Before you do anything though, make sure you check out the Additional Finished Garment Measurements included with your Willa Wrap Coat. Compare Measurement G - across the back shoulders - to a coat you have that you already like the fit of (or that you know you want to adjust) and go from there. This will give you a good idea whether you'll want to make any adjustments here before you even make your toile.
You'll Need:
- Your front and back Willa Wrap Coat pieces (both the outer and lining pieces)
- Ruler
- Tape, scissors and spare paper
Steps:
1. Draw in seam allowances along the shoulder line and the upper portion of your armscye, noted as the red dotted line below.
Mark approximately the centre of the seam allowance along the shoulder line (make sure it's the seam allowance, not the outer edge of the shoulder you're marking!), noted by the solid red line below.
2. Draw in 2 lines. Line A runs from approximately the centre of the armscye to the solid red line marked above, and Line B runs from the top corner down to Line A.
3. Cut along Line A from the top shoulder down, leaving a pivot point at the seam allowance circled below (trim into the seam allowance toward the pivot point to open this up).
4. Cut along Line B, from Line A, leaving a pivot point at the corner, circled below (trim into the seam allowance toward the pivot point to open this up).
Narrow Shoulder Adjustment
1. To perform a Narrow Shoulder Adjustment, move Line A in toward the centre of the coat, overlapping with the main pattern piece. You want to shorten the shoulder line by the amount you deemed necessary at the start of this tutorial - this is indicated by the red line below.
2. Open up Line B and swing the top of the pattern piece up, in line with the remaining shoulder line on your main pattern piece. Tape in place. True up any outer edges and tape some spare paper underneath to fill in any gaps.
3. Repeat this adjustment for the back shoulder as well as all lining pieces.
Broad Shoulder Adjustment
1. To perform a Broad Shoulder Adjustment, move Line A out toward the side of the coat. You want to lengthen the shoulder line by the amount you deemed necessary at the start of this tutorial - this is indicated by the red line below. ,You will need to pop some spare paper underneath to fill in the gap.
2. Bring the top of the shoulder line down and overlap Line B to match up with the shoulder line on your main pattern piece. Tape in place.
3. True up any edges and repeat this adjustment for the back shoulder as well as all lining pieces.
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