Full & Narrow Bicep Adjustment - The Willa Wrap Coat Sew Along

It's the start of Pattern Adjustment Week here in the Willa Wrap Coat Sew Along! We're going to be starting out by walking through how to do a Bicep Adjustment, whether you have narrow or full biceps. 

The steps for both are essentially the same, it's just whether you take away circumference or add it. Before you make this adjustment, check out the Additional Finished Garment Measurements included in the Willa instructions and work out whether you really need to do one first. 

Also note, we will be cutting up our pattern pieces, so if you don't want to re-print your sleeve patterns, I'd suggest tracing your pattern first.

How much should I adjust by?

It's difficult to give an exact amount you should adjust your bicep by because it depends! And this is where comparing the Finished Bicep measurements of Willa to a coat you already like (or know you want to adjust) comes in handy. 

To get your bicep measurement, make sure you measure when your arm is bent and keep in mind that you do need wearing ease! How much is completely dependent on you, but I would suggest 10cm or 4" is a good place to start (this is what is included in the Willa sleeve pattern).

Also note that you shouldn't use this method to adjust your bicep by any more (or less) than 2.5cm or 1". In that case, consider sizing up in the sleeve and toiling that first.

You'll need:

• Your Willa Wrap Coat Sleeve pattern pieces (both the outer and lining sleeves)
• Measuring tape
• Ruler/paper scissors/tape
• Additional scrap paper

Note: You can use a craft knife for steps 3 to 5 to make all pattern cuts, so that you don't have to break the pivot point at the hem in step 3.

Steps:

1. Draw in your seam allowances. You can do the entire sleeve, or choose to draw them in at the four key points we need - the 'underarm' corners, the centre top sleeve head and the centre bottom hem.

2. Draw in two lines. 

Line A runs top to bottom, matching notches at the sleeve head and hem. 

Line B runs horizontal, from the seam allowance corners at the under arm. This is your 'Bicep Line' and the line we use to measure out our adjustments. 

3. Cut up line A from the bottom hem until you reach your seam allowance marking at the sleeve head. Then snip down from the top of the sleeve head, leaving a pivot point at the red seam allowance marking (AKA your stitching line).

4. Now cut along Line B (from the centre out and then from the outside in), leaving pivot points at the red seam allowance marking (AKA your stitching line).

5. Finally, tape the bottom of Line A back together at the red seam allowance line (circled below) to form the final pivot point. 

Tip: place a line of sewing thread along the seam allowance line and tape in place with sticky tape before cutting into a pivot point. This will give you a stronger pivot point than plain tape. 

6. This is optional, but very helpful to keep your pattern on grain: Grab a piece of paper and mark a vertical and horizontal line on it, matching up with Lines A & B on your pattern piece. Place your pattern on top and make your adjustments from there.

Full Bicep Adjustment:

Along Line B, pull your pattern apart by your desired amount (indicated by the dark blue line and arrow above). The length of your sleeve (gold) will pull up, and the top sleeve head will angle down and overlap the sleeve length (gold). Tape in place.

You can see, when comparing your new pattern to the old (blue) pattern that after you've made this adjustment, the sleeve head is flatter (but remains the same length, so it will still fit into your armscye), and the bottom hem will have a slight inwards curve to it.  True up your bottom hem and sleeve head.

Narrow Bicep Adjustment:

Along Line B, bring your pattern in by your desired amount (indicated by the dark blue line and arrow above). The entire length of your sleeve (from bottom hem to top sleeve head) will overlap inwards and the sleeve head will become taller. Tape in place.

You can see, when comparing your new pattern to the old (blue) pattern that after you've made this adjustment, the sleeve head is taller (but remains the same length, so it will still fit into your armscye), and the bottom hem will have a slight outwards curve to it.  True up your bottom hem and sleeve head.

And that is how you do a bicep adjustment! Make sure you do this to both your Outer Coat sleeve and your Lining sleeve.

You can purchase your Willa Wrap Coat pattern right here.

xx

J