The Afternoon Blouse - Pattern Release Sneak Peek...

So, I've been keeping secrets. I've been busily working away on my first pattern for release, The Afternoon Blouse!

WHAAAA! {insert excited, nervous, happy dance here}

Yes, I know - everyone and their cat (and/or dog, fish, rabbit, guinea pig, chickens...etc) have been releasing patterns lately, but after a few doubts and some sage advice, I thought 'Why not?!' and bit the bullet. You see, sewing is my passion and I want to share it with everyone I possibly can. The worst that can happen is everyone hates my patterns and doesn't buy them, but at least I've had fun making them right?

So, how did this all come to be? Well, it sort of started when I approached our local Recreation Centre about the possibility of teaching sewing classes there (oh yeah, did I mention I'm going to be teaching sewing classes starting on Monday? YAY!! Except, more nervous dancing - what if I forget how to sew?). I wanted to teach two classes initially to gage reaction to them, one a Learn to Sew class and the other an Introduction to Dressmaking class. For the latter, I decided that I kind of wanted to teach my own patterns and so away I delved, into the relatively unknown. Cue: huge learning process here.

These patterns were originally going to just be for my classes, but then I realised what a whole buttload of work was going into one little pattern, that I wondered if I should sell them too. Just in case, you know, any of you wanted to make one!

So, my first pattern, The Afternoon Blouse.  I guess you could sort of call it a retro-vival pattern, as it is based off an original 50s pattern. However, I had made a number of significant fit changes to my original Afternoon Blouses and I've made even more changes to the pattern that I'm going to be releasing. I've made it easier to construct, have drafted a second neckline option and have made the overall shape and design of the blouse more modern so it should blend in well with a vintage and modern wardrobe.

It is a beginners pattern but for the advanced sewer, you should be able to make the blouse in an afternoon - hence the name, but it's also kind of perfect for receiving afternoon guests and for just kicking around in on a lazy Sunday afternoon - making for a quick and satisfying make.

As I said above, the blouse has two necklines to choose from, a round version and a square version. The Button detail on both versions is decorative (aka non-functioning) and it also has my very favourite, soft 1940s style kimono sleeves.  While the blouse is designed to be tucked into high waisted skirts and pants, it looks equally cool worn with jeans and sandals for the modern gal. Really, it's the perfect flowy blouse for those of you heading into summer, and you can make it up in luxurious silk or a practical cotton. Both work perfectly!

The pattern is currently with my lovely testers at the moment and it will be available in the next week or two. At this stage, I'm only going to be releasing it in PDF format, however, if there is enough of a demand for paper patterns, then I'll certainly look into getting them done as well.

AND if you don't sew, but want one, I'm going to be taking orders to make custom Afternoon Blouses for all! Ain't no reason why you non-sewers should miss out, right?! The Afternoon Blouse ranges in size from an NZ6 right through to an NZ20.

So, keep an eye out for when the pattern is officially released for download straight to your computer - I'll be announcing it right here! I'm also pretty sure there'll be a giveaway somewhere in there as well.

Can't wait to hear what you think!!

xx
Jen

A Merry Stepford Christmas...

Merry Christmas Eve everyone!

This is my newest make, the Stepford Wife does Christmas Dress. This dress is actually the result of one of those rare 'happy' sewing mistakes that apparently do pop up on occasion (who knew!).

This dress started out originally as a plain red Anna dress, number one on my Summer Sewing List.
The sizing chart on the back showed that the dress fit me absolutely perfectly made up in a size 8/12. I was so excited and if I'm honest, totally flattered that the BHL girls designed a dress that fit my measurements exactly (because I'm sure they design all their patterns around my measurements right?!). I generally tend to have to grade my patterns between three different sizes with modern patterns, but apparently not with the Anna dress.

I carefully traced and laid out my pattern pieces on the fabric, cut them out, assembled the bodice with french seams and then tried it on.

At this point, I may have squealed.

You guys, this bodice is so darn flattering!! I may never make another bodice ever again in my life! It is so easy to put together, so pretty with it's 40s styled kimono sleeves and so comfortable.

Then I moved on to the skirt...

At this point, I knew I should make a muslin, but being a bit stubborn and wanting to finish the dress in time for Christmas, I ploughed on ahead (I know, I know!! Tsk tsk, moving on...). I carefully assembled the skirt, french seaming everything along the way, attached it to my bodice, pinned in a zip, tried it on and...fail! The skirt looked absolutely awful on me.

Being a gal with hips, I need lots of ease in that department to make this style look good. I really should have graded up a size (or even 2) in the skirt to make this work, and to make matters worse, being charity shop fabric, I couldn't go back and get more as I had used every last scrap I had.

My lightbulb moment came a few hours later, after I had banished the dress to the other room and closed the door on my sewing machine. I remembered I had picked up a length of red and white embroidered fabric that I had found at the same charity shop a few days before we had left for our trip to Italy and the UK. Um, YES!

Why I hadn't thought of that earlier we will never know, but my love for the Anna dress returned and I got gathering.  I lined the skirt fabric with a heavy white cotton which has made it seriously lush. It's heavy and full and perfect for twirling. I inserted the zip in my favourite way (a lapped zip) and I'm so happy with how it all turned out. Very much a happy sewing accident if I do say so myself.

Have you been lucky with sewing accidents lately?

Just before I pop off, I wanted to wish you all a very Merry Christmas! I'll be back before the New Year with a little round up of my sewing makes from 2013. It was definitely the year of the return to my sewing machine (and there are several things I've not actually even managed to blog yet. That never happens!!).

xx
Jen

The Summer Sewing List...

Going into each new sewing season, I normally have quite a clear list of what I'm going to endeavour to make. Having a list makes it so much easier for me to stay on track and actually finish projects rather than abandoning them at the last stitch (I really dislike hemming, I don't know why...).

This year though, I'm really struggling to A) narrow down the list of patterns I could sew and B) decide on what fabric to actually make up said patterns.

I think I'm suffering from a bout of too many patterns, too much fabric (TMPTMF) syndrome. It might have something to do with moving countries, going on an extended travel adventure and then coming back to a summer that is not like the long hot summers I got used to in Sydney. Unfortunately the summers here can be a bit iffy, you're never really sure whether you are going to wake up to tights & cardigan weather or summer dress weather.

Having said that, I have managed to compile a small list to gently ease me back into sewing (and making decisions!):

1) BHL Anna Dress in Cherry Red

I really love the 1940's lines in the Anna dress, and after seeing so many amazing versions of this dress on the internet, I'm quite sure this is the first thing I'll be making.

I found the fabric for this on a recent trip to my favourite charity shop haunt and I'm planning to make the knee length version with a slash neckline. Although, I haven't decided whether to keep the sleek skirt or 50's it up with a full gathered skirt and pockets. Suggestions most welcome!


2) Sweet 1950's day dress in textured sky blue

I've had this lovely little 1950s pattern for a while now but could never decide on what fabric to use.  I found this length of textured sky blue mystery fabric on the same trip I found the cherry red fabric for my Anna dress and thought the two would make a simple but classic summer combo. I'll need to wear a slip under the dress as it is a little sheer with the textured lines in the fabric, but I am looking forward to finally making this pattern.


3) 1940's inspired tie front blouse in white with red polkadots

I may not use this 60s pattern for the blouse as I have another actual 40's pattern that I'm tossing up using instead. Both will require some pattern drafting to get the shape I want as well as the right amount of fabric at the bottom for the ties, but I am loving the little peter pan collar on this 60's version.

I am yet to find the fabric for this, but I'm thinking a little red polka dot cotton lawn will look quite lovely.


4) 1940's inspired peasant dress (View 3) in navy blue cotton

This is actually a 70s pattern that I found about a week ago hiding under the table of a little shop I had no idea existed (even after having lived in the area for some time just before we left for Sydney). I think it has a definite 40s vibe about it and looks like the perfect dress to throw on on a warm summers day.

On top of some mending I have to do on 2 vintage skirts I bought in Edinburgh, I am also hoping to make a 1940s slip or two (with a tutorial), a 1930s inspired silk camisole (also with a tutorial) and a few other bits and pieces that I haven't yet decided on.

I'm also about to begin the process of making my first experimental pattern, a simple and wearable 1940s inspired jersey top that is certainly going to test my pattern making skills (or lack there of if I'm completely honest!).

So, what do you guys currently have on your sewing lists? Have you ever suffered from TMPTMF Syndrome?

xx
Jen

Back...

Hey everyone, I'm back!

What an amazing 7.5 weeks it has been - I almost can't believe we were away for that long or that we are back already (and that it's nearly Christmas. I'm just not ready for Christmas yet).

We ate far too much pizza and pasta in Italy, and far too many English Cream Teas in the UK, we met some amazing people (including a number of fellow sewists!) and we walked and explored until our feet hurt.

Now I get to unpack the loot I found including vintage knitting and sewing patterns, silks from Goldhawk Road and wools from Edinburgh, vintage glass buttons and vintage skirts... Oh, and I get to catch up with my feedly feed. I could be a while...

I'll be back this week with a few sewing projects I finished before we left that I didn't get a chance to write about. Talk soon,

xx
Jen

The Kate-Franken Dress...

So, this is my Kate Middleton-Blue-Engagement-Franken dress. Number three on my Winter Time Sewing List.

Not as pretty as hers.

In fact, not the prettiest dress I've ever made. But wearable, and really, what else do you need?

My version is made up of so many different patterns I don't even know where to start. I found the front bodice bones in the form of a vintage Vogue dress pattern from the 1950s. The back is self drafted (a back that I had drafted for a little knit peter pan collared top I was selling in my Etsy store some years ago). The ties are taken from my wrap blouse (altered and lengthened) and the skirt is 2 rectangles of fabric gathered all the way around. The sleeves are from my Apples in Winter dress, lengthened.

The knit is a super stretchy wool mix of dubious quality, but I loved the subtle pattern and the colour. And it is so stretchy in fact, that I didn't need to use a fastening of any kind. I can happily slip it over my head, wrap the waist ties around and BAM! Instant waist.

It is not perfect by any stretch of the imagination. The bust gathers drape strangely down across my arm pit (I needed to make the shoulder a bit smaller I think) and some of the gathers underneath the bust sit kinda funny. But for a complete experiment (using mostly bits of patterns that were never meant to be made with knits) it's turned out wearable. Well, wearable enough to go to the pub for a drink anyway.

This is my second knit dress and I still feel like I don't really know what I'm doing when sewing with them. But I guess I've made two wearable garments so far, so I must be doing something right.

Have you ever had luck with piecing different patterns together to make something completely new?

xx
Jen

Winter-time Sewing...

While I still have a hankering to sew florals and summery dresses (thanks to all of you in the Northern Hemisphere) there are a few winter essentials that are calling my name at the moment. Since we'll be moving back to NZ in a few months, and it will be very much colder than our Sydney winter, I need to put my summer-dress dreams on the back burner and concentrate on more practical (but no less pretty) garments.

1) Cerulean Blue Shirt

I haven't made many shirts in my life, but this one seems like a pretty, sweet and easy 'first shirt' pattern.

The buttons I'm going to use are clear vintage glass buttons that I saved from another vintage short sleeved shirt that, sadly, was not wearable any more. Every time I thought about getting rid of the shirt, the buttons caught my eye and I couldn't do it. I'm so glad I saved them. They are so pretty and sparkly in the light.

2) 40's Wide Legged Pants

In both green wool and black pinwhale cord. I've finally got the muslin fitting right (after 3 attempts!). So these pants should be ready soon (in fact, the green pair nearly are!!). But my goodness, that post will be a loooong one. 

Warning - that pattern, made up with no changes, looks nothing like the pattern cover! Just sayin'.

3) Long-sleeved Knit Dress

This knit fabric is part wool and has some amazing stretch-y qualities. After my 40's knit dress, I am ready to tackle more knits!

My goal with this dress is to make something along the lines of Kate Middleton's blue engagement dress with a few tweaks for good measure. I thought this vintage Vogue pattern would give me a good base to make a similar dress - what do you think? I'll have to be careful with it since the pattern isn't designed for a knit, but I think it should work out okay...

4) Wool Pencil Skirt

Isn't this fabric just the most loveliest wool you've ever seen? And it's so gosh darn soft! Oh, and warm. Oh and did I mention soft???

5) 40's Floral Cotton Dress


Well, I needed at least one pretty summery floral dress right? Because isn't this pattern just the most gorgeous 40's dress you've ever seen? All drape-y and gather-y and lovely. If ever I was in love with a pattern, it's this one.

And that is my list. While it's a small list, I think it should be achievable. All of those garments have been in my mind for a while now and with my impending deadline, it also leaves room for some much needed travel sewing (more knit Vogue 8728's) and some other fun sewing that will be revealed in a few weeks time :)

xx
Jen

Me Made May - Week 3

Another Me Made week down!

I don't know about any of you, but it's starting to get harder to get dressed in the morning. I find myself checking my instagram far too often to figure out if I've already worn a combination before or to make sure that there have been sufficient days in between before I can wear the same piece again.

It's been great for forcing me to think a little more creatively about what I wear each day, to pull out those Me Mades that don't get any wear and to not just throw on the same old thing each day. But it's definitely becoming a challenge.

All I can say is, thank goodness for cardigans and their ability to transform the same outfit into something new.

Day 14 - 
It's started to get much cooler in the evenings here now. Today I invented a new fashion - pj's under dresses. Comfy and warm!

Wearing - Polka Dot Billie Jean

Day 15 -
I can't even remember what I did that day... but I really like those shoes.

Wearing - Self-drafted Grey Circle Skirt

Day 16 - 
Today you got a bonus glasses shot. No, they are not 'for show'. I wear them all day every day so I can see you :)

Wearing - Stripes and Stripes Dress

Day 17 -
I did baking today. I made a gluten free version of these. Yum.

If you plan to make them, put chocolate chips into the muffin batter as well. You won't regret it. Promise.

Wearing - Self-drafted Black Circle Skirt

Day 18 - 
It's Saturday! We went to look at art and made an impromptu stop at the Australian Museum. They have snakes and lizards there. Awesome.

Wearing - 60's McCalls Wool Skirt

Day 19 - 
Mostly couldn't be bothered getting dressed today. But I did get a lot done. Watch out for a bunting tutorial coming up on the blog this Friday (with a free downloadable pattern I drafted!).

Wearing - Vogue Violet Wrap Dress

Day 20 - 
Ahhhh Monday, we meet again.

Wearing - Self-drafted Blue Circle Skirt

xx

Jen

 

Patterns and Spots

So, something quite exciting happened a few weeks ago. I was asked to be a pattern tester for a new indie pattern company that Abby was starting called Blue Ginger Doll. I was quite chuffed to be asked really. I've never done any pattern testing before (except for my own adventures in pattern drafting) and so I jumped at the opportunity to be involved.

I received a lovely big package in the post a few weeks later that turned out to be the pattern for Abby's first dress, the Billie Jean.

It's a truly lovely pattern to work with. I didn't really need to make any alterations besides the ones I normally have to make to most patterns.

I did end up pinching a bit of excess out of the neckline though, probably about 3cm all up. The dress straps are designed to sit off the shoulder but I wanted to be able to wear the dress as an 'every day' dress and so needed to be able to wear a bra without the straps showing.

This is really very easy to do - simply cut out the front pattern piece in a muslin, place it on yourself or your dress form and pin the shoulder straps where you would like them to sit. Pinch out the excess on the neckline evenly on both sides, iron the excess down so that you have a flat pattern piece and redraw. Do the same for the back pattern piece so that the shoulder straps line up. You will need to slightly true up your pattern piece around the neckline after that, but it's really very minimal.

I made version 2 of the dress but made the skirt less full. My version is made from a light cotton black and white polka dot fabric and is lined in the same fabric.

The Billie Jean dress is Abby's first pattern and is available for pre-sale at the moment in both downloadable pdf and paper variations. Check out her website for other variations of the dress, you'll see that it's really a great pattern for mixing and matching different fabrics and styles.

xx
Jen

That's a {Violet} Wrap {Dress}

Please don't ask me how I come up with those post title gems...

This pattern has been sitting in my pattern stash for at least a year (probably longer). I fell in love with the violet dress on the front as soon as I saw it, but the only problem was that I just couldn't seem to find the right coloured fabric! It needed to be a violet wrap dress. No other colour would do.

Needless to say, I found the right fabric a few weeks ago, but guess what? It's actually cotton quilt backing! I know, I'm such a rebel.

I firmly believe that you can go ahead and use quilting cottons (and backings!) if they fit with the style of garment you are making. If the garment calls for a stiffer fabric, then go ahead and walk straight over to those quilting cottons and gush as much you like! 

Also, the best thing about buying quilt backing for a project? You get twice the amount of fabric for the same price because it's folded over double on the bolt. You really can't lose folks.

While the dress itself was relatively simple to make up, I spent so much time on hand sewing I could cry. I really really didn't want to lose the clean lines down the front of the dress by top stitching my facings in place by machine, and so I did it all by hand. If I didn't know how to do an invisible hand stitch before, I sure do now. But just look at that hand stitching! Oh wait, you can't...

I also added some purple hem lace to the front line of the skirt. This was actually lace left over from our wedding and I still have a bunch of it in all sorts of happy colours. I really love the result and think my next few garments will probably all have lace detailing of some kind on them. Need a tutorial on how to do this? Let me know in the comments.

Last but not least, I swapped out the arm facings for bias binding. I have a tutorial on how to make your own bias binding here and will have a tutorial on replacing arm facings with bias binding on the blog on Friday!

So, tell me, have you ever used quilt backing or quilting cottons for a garment? Did it turn out well?

xx
Jen