Narrow or Bulky Arm Adjustment - The Auden Cardigan Tutorial Series

Tuesday, January 17, 2017

Another simple adjustment you can make to The Auden Cardigan for a more personalised fit is to adjust the sleeve for narrow or bulky arms.

The sleeve on Auden is lightly shaped, but sometimes you need more shaping and sometimes you need less, depending on the person the cardigan is being made for and what you're planning to wear underneath.

Note - These alterations should be made without a seam allowance and after a muslin has been made so that you can get a gauge on how much you need to adjust your sleeve by.

You'll need - 
  • The Auden Cardigan sleeve & cuff pattern pieces (for either view)
  • Ruler (a french curve would be very helpful but isn't strictly necessary)
  • Pen
  • Scrap paper
  • Measuring tape

Narrow Arm Adjustment
A narrow arm adjustment removes excess sleeve width, resulting in a slimmer fit sleeve over all.

Using the diagram above, pinch out any excess from the bottom of the sleeve up to where the bicep sits at the top of the sleeve.

Note - make sure you're wearing what you will most likely wear underneath your cardigan to make sure you aren't taking out too much.

Dividing your excess up evenly on both sides of the sleeve, transfer these new points onto your sleeve pattern, then draw a gentle inward curve from your wrist up to the underarm of your sleeve. Adjust your cuff to match your new sleeve wrist width.


Bulky Arm Adjustment

A bulky arm adjustment adds width to the sleeve to accomodate a wider arm. Wear what you plan to wear underneath your cardigan and using the diagram above, measure the wrist and bicep, making sure to take into account wearing ease.

Place your pattern onto scrap paper and adding width evenly on both sides of the sleeve, transfer your new markings. Draw a gentle outward curve from your wrist up to the underarm of your sleeve. Adjust your cuff to match your new sleeve wrist width.

These are simple but effective adjustments to make to your Auden Cardigan (or any long sleeve pattern for that matter). 

xx
J
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