Full Belly Adjustment - The Auden Cardigan Tutorial Series

Friday, January 13, 2017

The Auden Cardigan is a slim fit cardigan, so a Full Belly Adjustment (also known as a Beer Belly adjustment) could be an alteration you may need to make if you're making it for someone with a wider middle section.

This is a fairly common adjustment that gives the wearer more room in the front to accommodate any extra fullness in the stomach area - you'll know if you need one of these because drag lines will be apparent to the side of the cardigan leading from the stomach, as well as possible pulling at the button band depending on how full the belly is.

A Little Tip - this is also a useful adjustment to make to any pattern you're considering turning into a maternity pattern that is not already designed for that purpose.

Note - the Full Belly Adjustment only needs to be made to the front of the Auden Cardigan and all adjustments should be made without seam allowances.

You'll Need - 

Steps - 

1. Draw a horizontal line from the front side seam, at the widest point on the chest, to just over half way into your pattern piece. Draw a vertical line down from where you ended your first line, all the way to the bottom hem.

2. Cut into your marked lines, leaving a pivot point where the two meet in the centre. Pop some spare paper underneath your pattern, then open it out along the hem line by your desired amount, pivoting your hinged pattern piece up.

Tape in place and true up the side seam of your pattern by extending it back down to it's original length - indicated by the dashed line below.

3. If you have a significant full belly, you may also need to lengthen the front of the cardigan.

To do this, slash and spread (by your required amount) a rectangle off the bottom of the front section. True up the hem of your cardigan by drawing in a gentle curve that joins the bottom side corner to where your new front starts, indicated by the dashed line below.

The line in red is the pattern piece before the additional length was added.

And that is how you make a full belly adjustment.

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