Broad & Narrow Shoulder Adjustment - The Auden Cardigan Tutorial Series

Tuesday, January 10, 2017

Today I'm going to be taking you through how to adjust the shoulder line on the Auden Cardigan for broad or narrow shoulders.

Because of the saddle shoulder detail, it probably looks more difficult to make these adjustments than it actually is. Really, they're just as easy to do as they are for normal shoulders, they just have slightly different steps, but it's the same principle.

In the tutorial, I've just shown the front pattern piece, but the same adjustments will need to be made to the back pattern piece as well.

Also, I mention this below but thought I'd point it out at the start too that you shouldn't over do these adjustments. If you do, you could not only significantly distort the design lines of the cardigan, but you could also end up making the overall fit worse. If you have significant broad or narrow shoulders that you're adjusting for, I would suggest grading a half or full size in the shoulder area on the front, back and arm pieces, rather than risk completely changing the look/fit of the cardigan.

You should always make a muslin first to determine any fit issues. If a broad/narrow shoulder is required, measure your shoulder line to determine by how much you should adjust the shoulder on the pattern.

Right, let's make some shoulder adjustments!

Note - All pattern adjustments should be made without the seam allowance included on the pattern.

You'll Need - 
Steps - 

1. On your Front Body pattern piece, draw a straight line from the middle of the top 'straight' section of your shoulder line, down through to roughly the middle of the two notches on your armscye.

Cut along this line leaving a pivot point at the circle marked below.


2. Draw in a second line, 90 degrees from your first line, up to the top notch on the armscye. Cut along this line, leaving a pivot point at the notch circled below.

Broad Shoulder Adjustment

This adjustment adds length and height to your shoulder to accomodate the extra fullness a broad shoulder requires.

This is probably the most common type of adjustment you'll need to make. A word of caution though, don't over do it, as you could end up changing the angles too much, resulting in weird design lines and a poorer/baggier fit around the shoulders. 

Steps - 

1. Add scrap paper to the bottom of your pattern then pivot your shoulder line out by your required amount, keeping the top of your shoulder in line as much as possible. Tape down then true up your shoulder line. 


2. Adjust your sleeve shoulder piece by cutting along the straight section, popping some paper underneath and spreading by the same amount you increased your shoulder line by. Tape in place and true up seams.


Narrow Shoulder Adjustment

This adjustment removes length and height from your shoulder to accomodate a smaller shoulder.

The narrow shoulder adjustment doesn't tend to be as common as the broad shoulder adjustment on mens clothing, and you more than likely won't be taking out as much for a narrow shoulder as you would add for a broad shoulder. Don't over do this adjustment though, as you could alter the fit around the shoulder making it overly short and tight and leaving you with weird design lines. 

1. Add scrap paper to the bottom of your pattern then pivot your shoulder line in by your required amount, keeping the top of your shoulder in line as much as possible. Tape down then true up your shoulder line. 

2. Adjust your sleeve shoulder piece by cutting along the straight section, and bringing the two pieces together by the same amount you narrowed your shoulder line by. Tape in place and true up seams.


And that is how you adjust the fit of the shoulder on a saddle style. Easier than you thought, huh?

xx
J
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XX
Jen

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