PDF Pattern 'Diamonds' & My Thoughts

If you've bought one of my pdf patterns, you probably would have noticed that I don't put those little diamonds up the sides of the borders that most pdf patterns have. They are sometimes put there to help you match your pages together as you're assembling your paper pattern.

Some patterns have diamonds or squares, some have circles in the corners, what ever they use, I don't have anything like that.

I've had people ask me or comment about this in the past, never in a bad way, just in more of a surprised way, because out of habit and experience they expect them to be there. My question though is always are they actually useful?

The reason I don't use these extra pattern markers is because I don't believe they need to be there for my patterns - I don't think they are useful or make assembling my pdf patterns easier or faster. In fact, I think they would add an unnecessary layer of complexity to pdf's (which people already find a little draining on the soul to print out and piece together in the first place) that just complicates the whole process.

In my book, you need two main things to accurately assemble a pdf pattern - borders and the pattern lines themselves (as well as some way to ensure your pattern pieces are up the right way. I also provide a visual and numbered layout of each pattern piece in the instructions which shows you how to lay everything out).

The borders around each page ensure that you are cutting out the pattern to the correct size. Then, matching them together (along the side, top and bottom) ensures that you are taping your pages together exactly parallel, as opposed to slightly skewed - which would then result in a slightly off pattern piece.

The pattern markings themselves then become your next check point in making sure your pattern is going together accurately. Once the borders have been lined up, the pattern markings should flow between the borders from one page to the next, joining up at all sizes or forming pattern piece information etc as you tape.

And that's it. I don't think you need to add an extra step to the process by also trying to line up diamonds. And to be fair, if you're accurately lining up your borders and pattern lines (which are the most important), then your diamonds (or circles!) would line up anyway. The only reason your pattern wouldn't be lining up is if you hadn't printed it to the correct scale, or the pattern wasn't exported into a pdf format accurately before you even got your hands on it.

So, that's my argument for not using them. I'm not against extra pattern markings, I just don't think they are necessarily relevant all the time, and what's the point of putting something extra on there if there is no relevance? That's just wasting good printer ink :)

I think it's good to question why things are done they way they are - sometimes it's for a very good reason, but other times, not so much.

So, I'm really curious to hear your thoughts on pdf pattern diamonds - do you pay attention to them? Do they actually help you to assemble patterns? Have I got it totally wrong?

xx
J

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Edit: I just thought I'd point you over to my tutorial on putting my PDF Patterns together to give you a bit of background into why I don't use these diamonds on my patterns - start reading from step 4. There is No Reason why you should trim all 4 sides of each piece of paper when taping up your pattern. It's much easier (and faster!) if you cut one side, and leave the corresponding side of the page next to it untrimmed. This way, it's easy to line up AND easy to tape together, since one page sits on top of the other. I also provide a visual and numbered print-layout for each of my patterns (divided into pattern pieces or different views), to ensure it's simple to put together, which is why, for me, adding diamonds seems like a bit of an unnecessary step.

Another Edit! There has been some discussion, both here and on Instagram about pdf pattern border thickness. I totally agree this plays a big role! The thinner the border the better - for reference, my borders are thin, they are the same size as the pattern outlines themselves.

So, assuming all pdf patterns have thin borders (though I've not used every pdf pattern out there, so I have no idea personally) then I suppose I'm still not sure how having those diamonds on there helps to line things up accurately, because, just like the pattern markings, you can never be sure whether they sit to the inside of the border, the middle or the outside.

And, if the borders are the same thickness as the pattern lines themselves, then how do you know where to cut the actual pattern itself? This goes for paper AND digital! I personally aim to cut down the middle of the line, but when they are so thin, it doesn't really matter a huge amount as there will always be some margin of error.

That margin of error will increase yet again when you actually cut out your pattern in your fabric.

So, I guess there's no easy solution for this other than for pattern producers to ensure they have thin borders on pdf patterns and for the person doing the sewing to make an executive decision on where to aim the scissors when cutting :)

Introducing Pattern No.3 - The Dalloway Dress & Skirt

Here it is folks - The Dalloway Dress & Skirt pattern, 

available for purchase and instant download right here!

With the Dalloway Dress & Skirt in your wardrobe, you’ll be ready to host your own party at a moment’s notice. But which view will you choose to make first? At least in this story, you can have your cake and eat it too.

Five horizontal pleats run the length of the skirt creating the illusion of a tiered peplum while adding body and detail. Small soft pleats then gently shape the skirt around the waist and hips, giving the impression of a fitted pencil skirt with all the comfort of being able to eat your way around the buffet table. 

The Dalloway Dress is constructed with a fully lined and enclosed bodice to hide away raw edges. The skirt underlining can also act as a lining, leaving you free to wear it without a slip when the cold weather strikes and both versions are finished with a lapped zip. For extra shaping, the bodice is designed with 2 waist darts on either side.

Dalloway is aimed at intermediate to advanced sewers, but if you are a beginner, taking your time may be all you need. What makes Dalloway a tad challenging are the horizontal pleats that run around the entire circumference of the skirt. They are attached invisibly to a skirt underlining and can be a bit fiddly to sew in.

Another thing that makes Dalloway a bit harder is the fact that the skirt is one length of fabric - there are no side seams. This can make grading the hips a teensy bit harder than your traditional skirt, and while I have allowed for plenty of ease in that area, you can still grade up or down if you need too and I will be posting a tutorial on just how to do that right here.

While I do instruct you to use a lapped zip for the pattern, you are more than welcome to substitute it for an invisible zip if that is your preferred technique. You can also easily opt to leave the horizontal skirt pleats out completely by using the underlining pattern for your skirt.

I'm not going to be running a sew-a-long persey for Dalloway, but I will be posting a series of tutorials on specific aspects of the construction of Dalloway. These will include -

• Grading the hips on Dalloway
• Easy Tailor's Tacks for Dalloway
• Pressing in your horizontal skirt pleats
• Stitching in your horizontal skirt pleats

So, whaddya think?

Dalloway is a multi-sized pattern that ranges from an NZ size 6 to 20 and you can purchase the digital PDF pattern files from my Etsy Shop - click here!

xx

Jen

Printing & Assembling PDF Patterns...The Afternoon Blouse

If you're new to sewing or dress-making, seeing a PDF pattern can either be the boost you need to get going because it's so instant, or it can be intimidating, because, how the heck does that all work anyway?

As I've just released my first pattern, The Afternoon Blouse, which is currently only available as a PDF pattern, I've written a quick tutorial on putting it together, so you can see just how easy it can be.

Now, the way I've laid out my pattern is a little different to your conventional PDF pattern. Why? Well, I've made it easier!

Instead of having to print out every-single-piece and join them all together in one big lump, I've broken them up for you. You can choose to print out each pattern piece individually, which means if you are only wanting to make one version, you can select the page numbers of the pieces you need, and print out those pieces only. This makes putting your pattern together faster (because you aren't taping a huge sheet together and therefore don't need to rearrange your entire living room to make enough floor space) and it also minimises paper wastage, because you aren't printing out unnecessary pattern pieces. So really, it's a win-win in my book.

Before we get to the printing and assembling bit of The Afternoon Blouse pattern, first you should decide what option you are wanting to make (and you're totally allowed to make both. In fact, it's encouraged!). You'll need to choose the following page ranges depending on the version you are making -

Version 1
Pages 3-5 (Facing Pieces) & 6-23 (Front and Back pieces)

Version 2
Pages 1-3 (Facing Pieces) & 6-14 (Back piece) & 24-31 (Front piece)

Supplies:
Afternoon Blouse PDF Pattern
A4 or Letter printer paper
Adobe PDF Reader Software (free to download here) or other PDF Reader
Tape or Glue
Ruler
Scissors (optional!!)

Steps:

1. Once you've downloaded and saved your Afternoon Blouse pattern and instruction sheet to your computer, open your PDF Pattern and select 'Print'

2. In your print options, select 'Actual Size' or 'Scale 100%' depending on which setting you have (I have the Scale 100% setting in my print options) and print page 31. This page has a handy Print Test Box that you can use to ensure you are printing to the right scale. Take your ruler and measure the sides of the box, they should measure 10cm x 10cm.





3. Once your print test box is measuring the correct size, you can go ahead and print out your pattern. You can choose to print just one version by selecting the page ranges you require (listed above).

4. Once your pattern is printed, you'll notice that there are page numbers at the bottom of each printed page. To ensure your pattern piece is up the right way, these need to be in the bottom right hand corner.

5. At this stage, you can either choose to fold your borders back, or cut them. Fold or cut the bottom side and the right side of each pattern piece in order to make it easy to lay them on top of each other to join them together.





6. On page 3 of your instructions, you'll find a Lay Plan of how you should lay each piece of paper together. Follow this guide and lay out your pieces of printed pattern.

7. Join each pattern piece together, making sure to line up borders and pattern lines from each piece to the next and tape or glue in place.





8. And, erm, that's it! Now you're ready to trace your pattern and spend the afternoon sewing.

xx
J

The Afternoon Blouse is Here...

Well folks, you can now buy your very own Afternoon Blouse pattern right here. Just in time for some Easter Weekend sewing!

Thank you so much for all of your sweet comments last week when I announced that I had been working on my first pattern. It's really rather a nerve racking thing to have worked to hard and spent so much time on something and not know how people are going to react. I said it in my last post and I'll say it again - your comments have been so supportive and really very humbling. THANK YOU!

I've decided that I'm not going to be running a sew-a-long per say, mostly because it's such an easy pattern, but I will be writing a number of posts about the blouse on things like stabilising seams (especially useful if you plan to make the blouse using silks, rayons or other 'slinky' fabrics), pattern hacks (a sleeveless version anyone? Or how about adding waist-ties for a bit more definition if you want to wear it untucked?) as well as a tutorial on printing and assembling your Afternoon Blouse Pattern as I've chosen to lay my pattern out a bit differently to other PDF patterns, which hopefully means it's easier to put together and you'll have less paper wastage!

So, ummmm, I guess all there is to do now is go get your own copy of the blouse, find that amazing vintage button that for some reason you only have one of, set aside an afternoon and get sewing, huh?

If you make an Afternoon Blouse, well, I'd REALLY like to see them, so please let me know if you've blogged about one, or feel free to email me a picture :)

Yay!

xx
J

The Afternoon Blouse - Pattern Release Sneak Peek...

So, I've been keeping secrets. I've been busily working away on my first pattern for release, The Afternoon Blouse!

WHAAAA! {insert excited, nervous, happy dance here}

Yes, I know - everyone and their cat (and/or dog, fish, rabbit, guinea pig, chickens...etc) have been releasing patterns lately, but after a few doubts and some sage advice, I thought 'Why not?!' and bit the bullet. You see, sewing is my passion and I want to share it with everyone I possibly can. The worst that can happen is everyone hates my patterns and doesn't buy them, but at least I've had fun making them right?

So, how did this all come to be? Well, it sort of started when I approached our local Recreation Centre about the possibility of teaching sewing classes there (oh yeah, did I mention I'm going to be teaching sewing classes starting on Monday? YAY!! Except, more nervous dancing - what if I forget how to sew?). I wanted to teach two classes initially to gage reaction to them, one a Learn to Sew class and the other an Introduction to Dressmaking class. For the latter, I decided that I kind of wanted to teach my own patterns and so away I delved, into the relatively unknown. Cue: huge learning process here.

These patterns were originally going to just be for my classes, but then I realised what a whole buttload of work was going into one little pattern, that I wondered if I should sell them too. Just in case, you know, any of you wanted to make one!

So, my first pattern, The Afternoon Blouse.  I guess you could sort of call it a retro-vival pattern, as it is based off an original 50s pattern. However, I had made a number of significant fit changes to my original Afternoon Blouses and I've made even more changes to the pattern that I'm going to be releasing. I've made it easier to construct, have drafted a second neckline option and have made the overall shape and design of the blouse more modern so it should blend in well with a vintage and modern wardrobe.

It is a beginners pattern but for the advanced sewer, you should be able to make the blouse in an afternoon - hence the name, but it's also kind of perfect for receiving afternoon guests and for just kicking around in on a lazy Sunday afternoon - making for a quick and satisfying make.

As I said above, the blouse has two necklines to choose from, a round version and a square version. The Button detail on both versions is decorative (aka non-functioning) and it also has my very favourite, soft 1940s style kimono sleeves.  While the blouse is designed to be tucked into high waisted skirts and pants, it looks equally cool worn with jeans and sandals for the modern gal. Really, it's the perfect flowy blouse for those of you heading into summer, and you can make it up in luxurious silk or a practical cotton. Both work perfectly!

The pattern is currently with my lovely testers at the moment and it will be available in the next week or two. At this stage, I'm only going to be releasing it in PDF format, however, if there is enough of a demand for paper patterns, then I'll certainly look into getting them done as well.

AND if you don't sew, but want one, I'm going to be taking orders to make custom Afternoon Blouses for all! Ain't no reason why you non-sewers should miss out, right?! The Afternoon Blouse ranges in size from an NZ6 right through to an NZ20.

So, keep an eye out for when the pattern is officially released for download straight to your computer - I'll be announcing it right here! I'm also pretty sure there'll be a giveaway somewhere in there as well.

Can't wait to hear what you think!!

xx
Jen