How to adjust the height of a Princess Seam

Thursday, September 15, 2022

Sometimes you might need to raise or lower the shaping of a princess seam over the bust - it might seem slightly more difficult than adjusting the height of a darted bodice, but it's really straight forward once you know how to do it.

I'm showing you this adjustment on the Georgie Pinafore, but you can use this method on any pattern that contains princess seam shaping. Make sure you remove seam allowances before making any pattern adjustments, and to make sure you're adjusting by the right amount, always make a toile (this will show you any other adjustments you need to make to your pattern as well!).


1. Line up your centre front and side front bodice pieces. Grab a scrap piece of paper and draw a box around the full bust curve on the pattern.

2. Make note of the full bust curve and notches within the box you drew in step 1 on your scrap paper (marked in red below) .

3. Raise or lower the shaping inside the box by however much you determined needed adjusting on your toile.

4. Re-draw (true-up) your seam lines - shown in blue below - add seam allowances back on and continue your garment construction.

How quick was that? 

I'd love to know if you use this method to adjust the height on any of your patterns that contain princess seams - why not tag me on Instagram?



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