The Dulcie Pinafore is aimed at Intermediate seamstresses mostly because there are some time-consuming parts (hello button holes!) and some bits that are a bit fiddly. If you're a confident beginner looking to sew up Dulcie, this tutorial will help put you at ease when tackling the construction of the waistband, especially if you're a visual learner like me!
It's pretty straight forward, but it can seem confusing until you do it...
Steps:
1. Assemble your bodice and attach your waistband pieces to the finished bodice as per the instructions.
2. Open out your waistband, then right sides together, line up the interfaced waistband (the one that sits on the outside of the garment) along the skirt waistline. The waistband should stick out 1.5cm (5/8") on each end.
Due to the curve of the skirt, it may feel like it doesn't fit, but it does! Just line up your notches and ease the waistband in.
3. Back-tacking at each end, stitch your waistband to your skirt. Trim down the seam allowance along the waistline leaving 1cm (3/8").
4. Draw the interfaced waistband down, bringing the bodice with it, so that it is now wrong side down (or right side up!).
5. The non-interfaced waistband will now sitting on 'top' with the bodice sandwiched between. The two waistbands will now technically be right sides together along the length. Pin the waistband seam allowance together at each end along the 1.5cm (5/8") seam allowance, being careful not to catch the bodice or skirt.
6. Back-tacking at each end, stitch the waistband closed at the ends, being careful not to catch your bodice/skirt.
Tip - you can use a zipper foot to get close to this seam without catching your bodice. AND, once you've got past the edge where the bodice is attached, you can fold it out of the way.
7. Trim down the side seam allowance and notch the corner.
8. Pull the non-interfaced waistband down so that right sides of the waistband are now facing out and the bodice and skirt are pulled out.
9. Press the non-interfaced waistband down.
10. Tuck the raw edge of the waistband up to the wrong side by 1.5cm (5/8"). Pin in place.
12. Stitch in place around the entire waistband, 3mm (1/8") away from the outer edge of the waistband.
And you're done! Like any 'tricky' step when sewing, just take your time, you can do it!!
You can purchase your Dulcie Pinafore pattern here, it includes both the Original pattern (6-24, A to D cups) AND the Curve pattern (16-34, C to F cups).
Happy sewing,
xx
J
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