I know what you’re going to say...

Monday, October 8, 2012
I do know what you’re going to say, but I just wanted to make sure you were going to say it, just in case, ya know, you weren't (but you're going to, I just know it...).

Below is the bust of the first muslin of my Cambie dress. As you can see, I haven’t got far mostly because I’m getting weird, sticky-outy bits around my underarm. I have three options to fix this (well actually, only one, but I’m trying to avoid it if I can):

a)      a bust dart – okay, not really an option, but I thought I would try.

Edited to add - I've had some questions about why a bust dart wouldn't really be suitable. To explain, I think it would really ruin the lines of the dress. If I was making it in a busy fabric I might get away with it, but making it in a plain fabric, the dart line would be really noticable. It wasn't designed with a bust dart in mind so I would really want to avoid it if possible!

Cambie 1

b)      really huge waist darts - this would mean a lot of bulk around the tummy area (so probably not really an option...)

Cambie 2

c)       a small bust adjustment – there, I said it!

So my question is, do I really have to do a SBA? I have a few tutorials lined up on how to do it because I’ve never done one before (more help is welcome if you have it though!), but I just wanted a second (and third and fourth etc) opinion on whether that was actually what I needed to do.

I think I have an irrational fear. 
Do I have to?

14 comments on "I know what you’re going to say..."
  1. I'm really looking forward to seeing what other (wiser) people post about this, because no matter how I squint at it, I can't make my brain understand how a SBA would affect the fabric! For the record, I definitely do not need an SBA, but I had the same problem with my Cambie. I ended up making it a princess seam instead. (I made a dart down from the top of the bodice, and just drew a curve to connect it to the original darts at the bottom!)

    Looking forward to seeing your solution!

  2. What if you do b) huge waist darts and cut away the excess of fabric? Would that be an option?

  3. What if you do b) huge waist darts and cut away the excess of fabric? Would that be an option?

  4. A side bust dart is always an option. Having to usually do FBA's, a side bust dart is usually a side effect of the process.

    However, SBA's are not that hard, and really worth the effort of learning how to do.

  5. I don;t understand why a bust dart wouldn't be an option.

  6. Might as well just adjust the pattern piece, then for successive cambies you can skip any adjustment.

  7. I was thinking about the same thing as Miriam...
    But anyway, if you do go for the SBA, it would be a good learning curve!

  8. Thanks so much for the suggestions everyone :) I think I might go down the 'larger waist dart' route :)

  9. I'm glad I googled what 'Small Bust Adjustments' are. As a non-sewer I was like... Jen... you're considering surgery to fit a dress?!

    Consider me enlightened lol.

  10. beautiful .. My blog is also sewing and clothes made by my

  11. beautiful .. My blog is also sewing and clothes made by my

  12. Very creative, It is very interesting while I'm thinking of getting married can draw lessons from you

  13. I have just found your site and love it! I have heard of a dart called a French dart. It is almost like a combination of a bust dart and a waist dart. It just might be what you are looking for. The dart is basically positioned halfway between the placement of the other two and you finagle the waist to look right.

  14. Hi! I would recommend doing the SBA. I know it's scary and probably a pain in the _ _ _, but it should probably give you the fit you want. Sorry, Kathy


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