A Pricing Update...

Hello hello!

I haven't seen you all since the last Willa Wrap Coat Sew Along post in March! Never fear, SO MUCH has been going on in the background that will hopefully begin to fruit over the next few months, and then I think I'll finally be back on a roll. It's also the end of the financial year over here and I've been spending time teeing up last year, reflecting, resolving and getting ready to start fresh this year. 

What all of this has made me realise though, is that in order to keep up and keep providing, I'm going to have to start looking at raising my prices gradually. So, from the 1st of May, my PDF prices will be getting a little makeover, with the rest of the changes to happen towards the end of the year.

I've written a bunch of my reasoning below if you care to read, but in a nutshell, from the 1st May 2021, you will be able to purchase the JLH Original and JLH Curve size ranges separately as well as in an economical bundle option if you want both size ranges in one pattern.  

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Pricing Changes

Many of you already know that I released my Curve size range last year, and that there are currently 2 patterns available with both the Original and Curve sizes included — these are the Dulcie Pinafore and the Willa Wrap Coat.

Many of the bigger indie companies that have two size ranges, split the purchase of these, meaning you pay the same single price twice if you want both size ranges. 

When I delved into the work of creating my JLH Curve Line, I really wanted my patterns to be accessible to as many as possible, so when I released them last year, you got BOTH size ranges for same single PDF price (that has remained unchanged for many years). I still want to honour this, as accessibility and inclusitivioty was one of the big driving forces for releasing the extended range in the first place. But what the numbers have shown, is that how I have been doing it is unsustainable for the long term.

So, on May 1st, I will split the Original and Curve size ranges up so that you can purchase them separately for $12.99USD each. HOWEVER, in order to keep the costs down for those that want both size ranges in the one pattern, I will introduce a bundle option priced at $18.50USD. This way you can get both size ranges combined for much less than paying double the single pattern price.

Right now, these changes only effect the two patterns that are currently available in both ranges - Willa and Dulcie.

The Willa Wrap Coat, available in JLH Original (6-24 A to D cups) and JLH Curve (16-34 C to F cups)

My aim is to keep my current single size range PDF pattern prices as is until the latter part of this year. These haven't been changed in many years, but they will go up to $14.50USD respectively, with the bundle going up to $21USD. This is to help me to keep up with the  growing costs that have built up over the years and to keep more in line with other companies (while still keeping them at the lower end of these price-points, to keep them accessible). 

Why?

Basically, the Curve pattern is a completely separate pattern to the Original pattern. While it has the same design lines and construction, it's a whole new pattern that is based on an entirely different block.  Because of this, it's fitted on a completely different body to the Original and has separate and very specific grading rules that I spent a lot of time on getting right, right at the start of this journey. 

The current price of the pattern covers the work for the Original sizes, but it has been falling short on covering the additional costs involved for the Curve patterns.

I pay my curve fit model for her time, expertise and materials: from sending printed patterns to her multiple times to test pattern tweaks, to purchasing fabric and notions for the — sometimes multiple — samples, to FaceTiming and emailing back and forth over tester feedback and Curve Community musings.  

After this initial fitting process, we move onto the time and resources I spend marking up a whole new pattern, finalising the details of this pattern (so many little details!) and then there's sourcing models for the final sample photos and the time and money it costs for these from fitting sessions, the fabric and the materials, to the final photography/editing/sorting and all that entails. 

With the additional work, time, expertise and finance required to add the new Curve patterns, I've realised I've not been covering any of this additional work in my prices.

The construction (and therefore the instructions) of each pattern though, is largely the same for Original and Curve ranges (bar the additional time and work put in to updating sizing, finished garment measurements and fabric lay outs etc), so I still feel that you shouldn't have to pay twice to get both size ranges. Which is where the bundle option comes in.

The Dulcie Pinafore, available in JLH Original (6-24 A to D cups) and JLH Curve (16-34 C to F cups)

I feel this new pricing structure both honours the work that is put into making these patterns available as well as those that fall either in between the cross-over sizes or those that want to use the pattern to make bespoke garments for friends and family members that sit across the sizes.

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What does this mean for older patterns getting the Curve sizes make over?

I had originally wanted to give everyone who had purchased an older pattern the Curve pattern sizes update for free. That was the dream, but it's not the reality.

I will honour a cheaper rate if you are wanting to purchase the extended sizes in a pattern you have previously purchased though. So, as older patterns are given the JLH Curve make over, you'll just need to forward your receipt and I will sort you out. 

Details on this will be available as each individual pattern is made over + released.

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I hope these minor changes don't put you off too much. Raising prices is always hard, and I've tried to be as transparent and honest as I can be. 

I hope you see the value in my new prices and realise that this will help me keep working hard to produce beautiful, modern-vintage inspired patterns, in a size-inclusive range (that includes A to F cups!), for as beautiful a fit, straight out of the packet, as possible.

xx

J

JLH Pattern Tester Call! (Especially if you fit into the new JLH Curve Size Range)

Hello Sewing Friends!

Every year I do a Tester Call out for more JLH Pattern Testers, and this year is no different except that if you fall into the new JLH Curve size range, launched last year, then I especially need you!

Last year I released my newly updated and expanded size range with the Dulcie Pinafore, followed closely behind by the Willa Wrap Coat. These patterns come with both the Original size range (6-24 A to D cups) as well as the new Curve size range (16-34 C-F cups). 

All new patterns will come with these sizes, but I am now working towards releasing some of my older,  popular styles, in the new size range as well.  I know there are LOTS of you hanging out for Gable, Ivy, Pippi & Juniper to name a few BUT, I need some more Testers to fit the expanded Curve range sizes.

I do have a great group of current Curve testers, but not nearly as many as Original testers, and with all of the new patterns on the way (both older styles and new styles in development), it would be great to have more testers in the Curve range, so that when the current ones don't have time/don't want to test/already are testing, there are plenty more people who can. 

I am aware of the discussions around size inclusivity in the sewing community happening at the moment (and that these discussions have been going on for years), and I'm excited to share my patterns with many more bodies of different shapes and sizes. So, please feel free to share this far and wide! My current audience probably doesn't encompass many of the new sizes I'm offering (which makes sense!), so I'm hoping you can help me spread the word so that as many people as possible can have the chance (if they like) at testing and trying out my new sizes.

If you'd like to become a JLH Pattern Tester, please sign up here.

If you're not sure what being a Tester entails, please read the FAQ's here.

I will be offering review opportunities in time as well, but, they need to be tested by lots of different bodies first. And again, my current audience is mainly made up of my Original sizes, so basically, I just need more people to know that I am offering these new sizes now.

• If you'd like to read more about the new sizes, you can check them out here. 
  
  
• For more in-depth info on the new blocks and sizes, you can find out more here. 
  
  
• Sign up to be a JLH Pattern Tester here.

Thank you in advance! I can't wait to get more updated patterns out... if you have any questions, please feel free to flick me an email: jen at jenniferlaurenhandmade dot com.

xx

J

2020, The Year that was...

JLH Instagram Top Nine for 2020

What a year 2020 has been.

I generally like to reflect on the good bits at this time of year, but it really has been a year of extremes. It's hard to focus on the positive without acknowledging all of the other turbulent things have come along with it. Like any thing in life, you can't have the good without the bad, and sometimes, it's the bad that makes the good in the first place.

We've had COVID-19, the unnecessary deaths of innocent Black lives & leadership debacles. We've made mistakes and we've (hopefully) learnt from those. Out of these huge events, we've learnt that we need to come together as a community to look after each other, we've learnt about our privilege and how to use this for good. We've got leadership coming in (and staying!) that will build on these things and bring people together, rather than divide. For me personally, 2021 feels hopeful, but without the events of 2020, to be honest, we probably would have been in exactly the same place we were on these issues at the start of the year. 2020 has created the momentum, and now it's important that we continue with the changes that we know are necessary for the good of everyone. 

JLH Paper Patterns

JLH Pattern's wise, it was a hard start, not knowing how world events would impact on my energy, time and of course, pattern sales. I opted not to turn any new patterns into the paper format this year, which was a hard decision because 2019 had been such a great year for paper, with the introduction of the format in late 2018.

I still haven't come to a conclusion about paper in 2021, but I'll spend some time pondering the future of JLH paper patterns over the next few months and will let you know how that goes once I've come to a decision.

The Willa Wrap Coat, available in JLH Curve sizes

Extended Sizes - JLH Curve

2020 did see my pattern offerings round themselves out a bit with the introduction of my first 'pants' (trousers?) pattern, The Bastion Culottes and my first coat pattern, The Willa Wrap Coat. I also introduced my new expanded size range  - JLH Curve - with The Dulcie Pinafore and Willa Wrap Coat currently available in sizes 6-34 in A to F cups.

Adding the new sizes was something I'd been meaning to do for a long time, and I'm sorry that they didn't happen sooner.  It is a lot of work, as they are essentially a new pattern all in themselves (based of an entirely different block with a new fit model etc) and then needing to source models to photograph samples on top of that (it's usually just me and I squeeze photoshoots in around naps!).  

It also took a lot of careful consideration to be able to implement the new sizes without raising prices or having to sell them separately. But now that I've got a process worked out, the aim is to continue this on into 2021. I'll be continuing building on the extended sizes by releasing some popular older styles over the year as well as all new release patterns being available in these sizes. 

The Dulcie Pinafore, available in the new JLH Curve sizes.

Work/Life Balance

In terms of work/life balance, 2020 has been HARD! It's still just me running this little business, along with a handful of other freelancers, and I've only had 1 full day a week to work (along with evenings and weekends) because I've essentially been at home full time with Rowan. This has been both a blessing and also some serious hard work. It's left me incredibly tired and drained, both mentally and physically. And while I'm super grateful to have been able to spend that time with her, gosh, it's not exactly ideal.

This year, Rowan starts a few regular Kindy mornings from March and I'm hoping that once she settles into the routine, I'll be able to feel, and be, much more focussed and able to spend more quality time on each aspect of life, rather than having to do all-of-the-things with half my mind on something else.

With that in mind, I've decided not to release any new patterns for the first few months of 2021, and instead spend that time on getting Rowan properly settled into Kindy and all of my 'JLH Patterns' and 'personal-life' ducks in a row. Hopefully, my first pattern (The Esme Top) will be released towards the end of March/start of April, but I'm giving myself some breathing space on that and not pushing myself to get it out just for the sake of it (it's all designed and nearly ready for testing though...). 

The Bastion Culottes

New Patterns and Plans for 2021

I currently have three brand new patterns designed and in the works, and several older styles that are getting the extended-sizes make over. But as I said, I'm trying not to put too much pressure on the beginning of 2021. I hope once the momentum starts though, it'll keep ambling along at a productive pace. 2021 does feel more energetic and like it will be far more balanced than 2020 was.

I'm also wanting to spend more time catching up on things I haven't had the time to do over the last 1.5 years I've been at home with Rowan. I have so many tutorials and pattern hacks in my head that I'm excited to share with you this year, so that you can get even more out of your JLH patterns.  

The first cab off the ranks is the Willa Wrap Coat Sew Along. It's my first proper sew along for a long time, and it's been fun jumping back in and going a little deeper with each step of the construction process. I hope you'll be sewing along with me come January 18!

Thank you!

If you've read this entire post, brava to you. Let's not wish 2020 good riddance though, let's take what we learnt and do better in 2021, for without 2020, we would not be where we are today, we would not know what we know today and we would not do what we need to do today, for a better tomorrow.

And last but not least, a huge thank you for all of the support during 2020, I wouldn't be here without you. Happy New Year Friends, let's get some more sewing done, shall we?

xx

J

The Dulcie Pinafore - Tutorial: Hemming the Skirt

In today's little tutorial, I'm going to be going through how to hem the Dulcie Pinafore! Again, it's one of these things that looks more complicated than it is. So, here we go...

You'll need:

• Your Dulcie Pinafore, constructed up to hemming the skirt (using the included instructions)
• Pins + iron

Steps:

1. Open out the skirt facing and press the raw edge of the entire skirt hem up by 5mm (3/16").

2. Flip the skirt facing around so that it is now right-sides together with the main skirt front (keeping your baby hem pressed up from the first step). Pin in place.

3. Stitch your facing hem in place using a 1.5cm (5/8") seam allowance, back-tacking at each end.

4. Trim out the seam allowance from the inner front corner, leaving a centimetre or 2 (3/8" - 3/4") of the facing remaining at the outer edge.

5. Turn your facing back around so it is now right sides facing out.  Press the corner of the skirt out gently with something pointy (a knitting needle or a point turner can be handy here!).

6. When you turn your facing out to the right side, it will naturally bring up the rest of the skirt hem with it. Press the remaining skirt hem up evenly (1.5cm or 5/8") and pin in place. 

Remember, your baby 5mm (1/4") hem from step one should still be folded in place!

7. Leaving long thread tails at each end, stitch your hem in place right at the edge of the baby hem folded up in step 1. Pull thread tails to the back and knot securely before trimming.

And you're done! Easy, huh? And such a lovely clean hem and skirt corner :)

You can purchase your Dulcie Pinafore Dress pattern here.

xx

J

The Dulcie Pinafore - Tutorial: Finishing the Waistband

The Dulcie Pinafore is aimed at Intermediate seamstresses mostly because there are some time-consuming parts (hello button holes!) and some bits that are a bit fiddly. If you're a confident beginner looking to sew up Dulcie,  this tutorial will help put you at ease when tackling the construction of the waistband, especially if you're a visual learner like me! 

It's pretty straight forward, but it can seem confusing until you do it... 

Steps:

1. Assemble your bodice and attach your waistband pieces to the finished bodice as per the instructions.

2. Open out your waistband, then right sides together, line up the interfaced waistband (the one that sits on the outside of the garment) along the skirt waistline. The waistband should stick out 1.5cm (5/8") on each end. 

Due to the curve of the skirt, it may feel like it doesn't fit, but it does! Just line up your notches and ease the waistband in.

3. Back-tacking at each end, stitch your waistband to your skirt. Trim down the seam allowance along the waistline leaving 1cm (3/8"). 

4. Draw the interfaced waistband down, bringing the bodice with it, so that it is now wrong side down (or right side up!). 

5. The non-interfaced waistband will now sitting on 'top' with the bodice sandwiched between.  The two waistbands will now technically be right sides together along the length. Pin the waistband seam allowance together at each end along the 1.5cm (5/8") seam allowance, being careful not to catch the bodice or skirt.

6. Back-tacking at each end, stitch the waistband closed at the ends, being careful not to catch your bodice/skirt.

Tip - you can use a zipper foot to get close to this seam without catching your bodice. AND, once you've got past the edge where the bodice is attached, you can fold it out of the way.

7. Trim down the side seam allowance and notch the corner.

8. Pull the non-interfaced waistband down so that right sides of the waistband are now facing out and the bodice and skirt are pulled out.

9. Press the non-interfaced waistband down.

10. Tuck the raw edge of the waistband up to the wrong side by 1.5cm (5/8"). Pin in place.

12. Stitch in place around the entire waistband, 3mm (1/8") away from the outer edge of the waistband.

And you're done! Like any 'tricky' step when sewing, just take your time, you can do it!!

You can purchase your Dulcie Pinafore pattern here, it includes both the Original pattern (6-24, A to D cups) AND the Curve pattern (16-34, C to F cups).

Happy sewing, 

xx

J

How to do a Bust Adjustment on a Princess Seam - A Dulcie Pinafore Tutorial

Even though Dulcie now comes with 6 cup sizes (A to F), you may still need to do an FBA if you sit on the edges of where the 2 patterns cross over, or if you are larger than an F cup (if you're smaller than an A cup, you will do the opposite to the below. Though, there is only a 1cm difference in the high and full bust for the A cup, so you may find you don't need to do one). 

Have a look at the size charts here and work out whether you'll need to do an FBA using the guide on working out your cup size, included on the same page.

For example, if you have a High Bust measurement of 94cm (37") AKA a size 14, and a full bust measurement 104cm (41"), you have a difference of 10cm (4") and therefore an E cup.  The Original Sizes don't have an E cup included, and the Curve Sizes start at a 16, so therefore, you will want to do a small FBA.

In this example, I would recommend using the 14D cup so that you only have to do a small adjustment to get to the E cup.

The D cup has a difference of 7.5cm (3") so to get to the E cup, you'd need to do a 2.5cm (1") bust adjustment. BUT, because we are working with half a bodice, divide this measurement in half to get 1.25cm (1/2").

If you need help with choosing your size and how much to adjust by, just send me an email, I'm more than happy to help. 

You'll need:

• Your Dulcie Pinafore Pattern - both pattern piece A (Centre Front Bodice) and piece B (Side Front Bodice).
• Scrap paper
• Pen + ruler
• Scissors + sticky tape

Steps:

1. Draw stitching lines in on both the Centre Front piece (A) and the Side Front Piece (B) of the Dulcie Pinafore (purple lines below).  Your seam allowance is 1.5cm (5/8").

After making a toile, note on your pattern piece where your Full Bust sits. On the pattern itself, the full bust sits approximately at the bottom notch indicated on the princess seam itself. Draw a line straight across on both pattern pieces . This line will be called Line A, in blue above.

Note: on pattern piece B, draw the line stopping at the purple stitching line along the princess seam.

2. On pattern piece B, draw a second line from the notch on the armscye down to line A at the princess seam end (this is line B). Then draw a third line from the bottom of the waistline, up to meet at Line A and B, along the purple stitching line. This is line C.

3. Cut along Line C, starting at the bottom, and pivoting into Line B. Stop cutting at the purple stitching line at the armscye, circled in red below. 

4. Place an additional cut along Line B at the armscye down to the stitching line, leaving a pivot point at the purple stitching line circled.

5. Now cut along Line A from the side seam - you now have a Transformer (hehe).

6. Place a piece of paper underneath your bodice and tape down the seam allowance along the princess seam on the bodice at the arrow indicated below.

7. You now want to open out Line C by the amount you worked out above. For this example, it's 1.25cm or 1/2" (noted by the red lines below - they measure 1.25cm). 

Make sure Line C is open equally by that measurement all the way down, pivoting your other cut lines out until the pattern piece is flat. Tape the bottom left section of the pattern down along Line C.

8. To true up the length of the princess seam, cut along the waistline stitching line (marked in red below) and move that little square down so that it matches up at the bottom. Tape in place.

9. Draw in your new bottom right corner lines.

10. Now we need to remove the dart created along Line A. Trim down the additional paper behind the pattern from step 6, leaving the paper under the Line A dart. 

Extend the top Line A down to the outer edge of the pattern (in red below). Cut this line from the outside in to the pivot point at Line A. Leave a pivot point here too - circled in red.

11. Close Line A by moving the top of the pattern piece down. This will open up a little dart at the outer edge of the pattern, marked in red below.

12. Now we need to remove the additional width the adjustments above created at the waistline, for this example, it was 1.25cm or 1/2". 

At the side seam waistline stitching line, mark in the measurement you added to Line C earlier (ours is 1.25cm) - noted in red below. Then, from the side seam end of Line A, draw a line straight down, removing the extra waist measurement (blue dotted line). 

13. Now we need to true up the Centre Front Bodice length. Measure the purple stitching line length (not the outer edge!) of the little dart created at Line A in step 11, as well as the waist, both circled in red below.  

Cut along Line A on your Centre Front bodice and draw and cut an additional Line D along the bottom waist purple stitching line (in red below).

14. Place a piece of paper under your Centre Front Bodice pieces and spread them apart by the corresponding lengths from step 13. Tape in place.

15. Draw in your new pattern piece lines (blue dotted lines below) and cut out your new pattern. You will then need to re-adjust your buttonhole placements, depending on how much additional length was added.

And you're done!! They look a little funky after you've done all that cutting, taping and drawing, so feel free to then trace over these pieces so you have fresh new ones. Also, I promise that this adjustment looks more complicated than it really is. It's mostly just drawing, cutting and taping lines at the end of the day, so don't stress too much.

If you have any questions about sizing or bust adjustments, drop me a line at jen at jenniferlaurenhandmade dot com. 

You can purchase your Dulcie Pinafore pattern here!

Enjoy!

xx

J

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