Gable is a modern take on an elegant classic 50's design - with 3 seasonal variations suitable for all seasons and made with comfy knits, Gable is a beautiful and quick project, that'll become your new go-to knit top pattern.
Just like any hobby, sewing can become an expensive pass-time with all of the different bits and bobs available - whether you're a newbie (what do I actually need?) to an experienced sewer (must have all-the-new gadgets!!).
I might be in the minority here, but I think that the fewer fancy gadgets you have, the better. Yes, you might save a few minutes on a specialty technique with that fancy foot, but you still have to learn how to use the foot AND it's only worth it if you use that particular technique a lot. Almost everything can be done with the basic equipment that came with your sewing machine and yet, almost every technique has it's own specialty thing to 'make it easier and faster'.
So, if you're on a budget or are still exploring whether sewing is for you, here is a little technique that will give you perfect rolled hems every time, without the need for a rolled hem foot. There are a few more steps involved, but you only need your straight stitch foot and an extra 5 minutes for a lovely little rolled hem - it's easier than you think it is.
I know I'm a bit late to the party, but you guys, it's July already. The shortest day has come and gone and summer is apparently on it's way (if you believe the hype that is. I, personally, am skeptical). It's been sickness and busy-ness and cold around here.
I was reading an article the other day that was talking about the winter solstice - it marks the very centre of the seasons, where the sun goes away to hide for the longest night, and I thought to myself, what a lovely way to think of it. Instead of it being the shortest day, it is instead, The Longest Night.
Now, doesn't that sound cosy? It sounds like the name of the softest inky-blue ball of wool you ever did see. Like the cosiest of nights, tucked up in front of the fire. Like the cold-crispness of a dark and clear winter night with all of the twinkling stars looking down from above.
It's a nice change of perspective. A glass half-full of warm milk with a side of freshly baked cookie. And sometimes, a warm glass of milk, the longest night and a bit of perspective is just what the doctor ordered. Time to breath and re-think.
I've been busy working on new patterns. Two of them. They'll be released at the same time, separately as well as in a bundle, and it's been keeping me pretty busy. But I did find time to finally finish my very first ever roman blind the other weekend. It only took me 2.5 years, and I still have 3 more to go, plus curtains for my sewing room. But all of those combined should only take another 2 years... especially now that I know what I'm doing *wink*.
I love French Seams and though I did a tutorial a few years ago, I thought since releasing The Hunter Tank, that it was the perfect time for a bit of a re-fresh.
The Hunter Tank can be almost completely made up with French Seams (except for the centre front) and it's the perfect little pattern to try the technique on if you're new to it.
French Seams are the best kind of seam to use on delicate, light and sheer fabrics, just what The Hunter Tank calls for. They enclose the raw edge of a seam and produce a beautiful finish on the inside and out, and they aren't hard at all! Let me show you...
1. Wrong sides together, place a line of stitching 5mm (or 1/4") away from the seam allowance.
2. Press your seam allowances open (use a Tailor's Ham to keep the light angles on the centre back seam of your Hunter Tank in place).
3. Fold your seam in half, right sides together, along your stitched edge and press.
4. Place a line of stitching along the seam allowance again, this time 10mm (3/8") away from the edge. Press and marvel at your beautiful finished French Seam.
Ahhhh, look at how pretty that is, and so easy to boot! You can do a French Seam with any amount of seam allowance really, just make sure both seams equal the seam allowance that your pattern calls for (15mm for Hunter). And make sure your first seam is smaller than the second seam, or trim your first seam down before stitching in your second seam.
French seams can be used on The Hunter Tank for the back centre seam, side seams and shoulder seams.
Have you tried French Seams? Will you give them a go now that you know how easy they are?
1. Sew your centre front seam together, right sides facing. Press your seam open.
2. Because there is a 2cm seam allowance included in this particular seam, place a set of basting stitches all the way down the middle of the seam allowance by stitching 1cm (3/8") away from the raw edge, providing you with a guide line for the next stage.
Do this to both sides of this seam allowance.
3. Using your basting stitches as a guide, press your seam allowance in half and tuck your raw edge under.
Because of the light curves in this seam on the Hunter Tank, I like to press it using a Tailor's Ham to help keep the subtle shaping.
4. Press, then secure with a line of stitching as close to the edge as you can get it. Press again and voila, a perfect centre seam every time.
Why not try some contrast stitching down your centre seam next time you're making a Hunter Tank? Have you tried this?